Egypt and Cyprus

2^nd April 2009

Pete....Dolphin Reef

I went to bed at 16:30 yesterday absolutely knackered. In the middle of the night, the wind had died away completely and so the ones who carried on yesterday would have had an easier time motoring directly to their destination rather than tacking back and forth.

Getting out of Dolphin Reef at 05:15 in first light was a bit daunting as we could not see any of the bommies that were so visible yesterday in good overhead light. I very slowly followed our GPS track of the previous afternoon whilst Fliss stood on the bows looking into the murk. The water beneath us was perfectly clear but everything beyond was invisible. Anyway, the stillness of the night was still with us and, so far, has stayed with us. We haven't even bothered to get any sail up since it would only slow us down.

Our intended destination was to Gezirat Wadi Gimal Island - a rather daunting 45 miles North. Given our previous experience of square shaped oncoming waves and wind, we were not really expecting to make it. However, with the calm seas, we made good progress. The knot or two of contrary current that plagued us yesterday and earlier on our passage eased and disappeared altogether and so we made good progress.

We therefore stopped at Gezirat Wadi Gimal Island and went ashore for a short walk (first landfall in well over a week) and did a bit of snorkelling although the water is now getting a little nippy.

3^rd April 2009

We left at 05:00 to get some miles under our belt and to probably keep going the whole night. However, the wind started up again NNWesterly as usual and soon there was a nasty chop and swell directly at us. We decided to stop at Samadi Reef (just off Ras Samedi) and negotiated the outlying bommies to be met by a RIB from a dive boat who told us that the reef was now a National Park and we were not allowed to stay - a shame because it looked beautiful. He told us to pick up a mooring at a reef closer to shore but following an inspection, there appeared to be no real shelter there so we turned back into the waves and came into Marsa Tundaba (24 degrees 57.7'N 34 degrees 56.2E). There is surprising shelter here considering that this is just a dip in the coastline but there is a reef to the North of us that is keeping the worst of the swell out and it is quite comfortable. We were soon met by the local officials who wanted to know why we had stopped and wanted paperwork as usual. They were quite friendly and the local Dive School instructor acted as translator.

We listen to the Vasco De Gama Rally boats on the radio. They have just come across Foul Bay and are now entering Port Ghaillib having trouble finding the entrance in through the reefs in rough conditions. Glad we are not there.

We had Pizza again for dinner tonight and Fliss baked some bread for morning breakfast so she has been a busy bee since we arrived at the anchorage. We decided to get an early night and got ready for bed. The wind had been dying since we had arrived and, just after Fliss got snuggled in, I suggested that it might be a good time to go on the next leg. The basis being that the wind seems to ease at night.

So, up with the hook and out we went into the leftover seas. Fortunately, we were just able to get the sails set against the angle of the wind and that helped enormously but, as usual, we still have the engine running to get us along.

At about 22:30, we passed a yacht going quite slowly, they called us on the VHF to say hello and said that they were running low on fuel but were headed to Port Ghailib and were due there in the morning. As we went past, I looked at them through the binoculars and, in the moonlight, realised that they did not have their mainsail set. It was then that it struck me that they had also said that they had previously broken their boom. I called them back and offered to stay with them until they were sure that they could reach Port Ghailib on their remaining fuel supplies, they were very grateful for the moral support and we therefore chugged slowly along with them at about 3 knots for the next 3.5 hours. At 14:00, they called and said that they were that they would make it on the few remaining litres of fuel and we parted company.

Fliss...

Just as snuggled under the covers with my book, Pete stuck his head in the cabin & said “the winds have eased maybe we should go now?” great! I thought as I pulled on my thermals & Henry Lloyds.

I'm afraid to say that I wasn't thrilled at having to slow Naz down after all the early starts & long desperate runs to cover some miles. I know it was un-seamanship but it's been a slog so far.

4^th April 2009

Well, the job of good Samaritan paid off. We had slowed down and therefore not passed Ras Toronbi by first light. It was then that the wind started picking up and the waves had got quite a bit steeper. I tacked slowly towards shore in the direction of Ras Toronbi and the winds eased but backed. Tacking out again, I could maintain a course that had us directly into the boat-length steep waves going 1-2 knots. The wind then increased and veered. You could see the shear line between less windy water and windy water. Knowing that the waves could only get worse, we tacked back to Ras Toronbi and by the time we got there, things were getting really fresh. We found the anchorage here quite easily and tucked inside the reefs in 6.5m on sand and payed out loads of chain.

Later on, we saw a dive boat (think 30-40m gin palace) fighting against the weather inshore. The whole boat was pitching and diving (no pun intended) and making very slow progress. We commiserate with the sick people on board.

The army lads wanted to see us and I brought one back to Naz and gave him the usual paperwork even though he did not want it. These guys are young and doing National Service and can't quite work out what to do with us. I took our raw recruit back to shore and sat with him for a while at his lookout (he spends each day on a seat looking out to sea) and another recruit came along with better English. He liked Bob Marley and so I went back to Naz and made a few of copies of CDs for them.

I am supposed to be joining them later but don't know when or why.

The wind has died and I have been out in the dinghy taking transits for our departure early tomorrow morning when the light is good enough to see land. Hopefully the sea will have abated by then and we will get a run at it for 24 hours. If it all turns to poo again then we can always come back or simply hove-to and wait it out??

Fliss....

I hang my head in shame.

5^th April 2009

We got up again at 05:00 and were on our way by 05:30. A small set of waves was holding us back a little with no wind to push us forward. The weather forecast was for 15 knots South Easterly and it seems to have lived up to its prediction and even more! It was glassy calm so the Southerly winds must be strong enough to hold back the usual Northerlies.

We have just had home baked bread with cheese and tomato - really, really nice - Fliss has got her pressure cooker bread to perfection but we still crave Sainbury's wholemeal.

Fliss...

Hurghada is a real tourist town & we're really looking forward to it. Pete's promised me dinner our one night, which be nice. I've started my boat provisioning list and so far the list is up to 45 items. Last proper shop was Aden on the 24th Feb and that was really just fresh stuff. I reckon I could still cater for about 3 weeks but it would be all tinned food. Strange really but the stuff we are eating now I've bought in England, Caribbean, Panama, NZ, Australia, Indonesia, Malayasia, Thailand & Aden, all over the world just looking at the labels brings back memories.

We've heard about other yachts that haven't been able to make this journey and have been forced back. One yacht ran back 60 miles, that must have been painful to give up that distance, 60 miles is a good & lucky days' sailing in The Red Sea. We are keeping our fingers crossed for landfall in Hurghada.

6^th April 2009

You might think that we are being a little cautious about our daily grind up the Red Sea but here are a few comments from those who have been before us................

This is a description from various boats - Foul Bay

"Prism"

Therefore, we set off across the infamous Foul Bay, 110 miles, and a certain overnight passage, in flat calm and good motoring conditions. It is generally agreed that Foul Bay is the worst stretch of water on the west side of the Red Sea, reef strewn, uncharted and wild. There is clear passage if you stay outside the line of the defining capes, but it is said that you venture inside this line at your peril.

Pariah was ahead of us about half way across, when the wall of wind hit. 30 knots makes for horrendous sea conditions. They were able to make Gez (island) Zabargad, a high volcanic conical island before nightfall, where they anchored hanging off the sheer drop off of the reef wall in the wind. We were still at sea, reefed down and punching into it ever so slowly.

"Outa Here"

As the wind gusted to 30 knots - as is common in the Red Sea at this time of year - we made cinnamon rolls, applesauce bread, rye bread, brownies, watched football games and movies, and even did a few 'fix it' jobs. Thirty knots of wind on the nose is not that bad, a lot of you are probably thinking. In addition, it is not. What gets you is the chop, which gets shorter and steeper with each additional knot, until the bow just slams into wave after wave. That gets you. Such conditions are not only hard on the boat and crew, they make progress very slow.

these are various descriptions of our next leg....

"Prism"

Turned out we were a little premature. The wind, which had behaved itself for the days we were gone, came back with a vengeance and blew in the 30's for two weeks. We tried to leave on one occasion, made it as far as two miles past the Ras on the north side of the bay, but were turned back by very steep and short seas. Since we were seven miles north of Safaga, and reluctant to give up even an inch, we hung out in the semi-shelter of the dunes on the Ras and got sand blasted for two days before finally giving up and going back to the Paradise where we learned an anchoring rule which goes, "If you arrive in a bay lined with hotels all sporting numerous flagpoles, it may behoove you to determine if the flags bear the logos of various and sundry windsurfing companies before surmising it is a tenable anchorage in a blow." This has now been added to our list: "Things we have learned along the way and now try to pay attention to."

"Khamsin"

The next day, after sail repair, we beat up a few miles until we could get in the lee of the reefs and made it to Marsa Zeitiya. This was not a nice place, screaming winds, and a Teflon bottom. By this time we were getting used to the frightful conditions so we stayed one night of anchor watches and took off again. Our perseverance was rewarded. After we struggled past the lower Gulf of Suez, which has high mountains on either side, creating a canyon for the wind to rush through, the winds diminished to proportions that are more manageable and the sea became less confused.

"Prism"

We did not know it yet, but we were well into the saga of the Gulf of Suez. While further south we had been reluctant to put to sea in twenty knots, here we routinely were up at dawn raising the anchor and heading out into twenty five and thirty. With no letup in sight, there was little choice. Many days we'd be underway at five, sail all day within a mile or so of shore, use any small headland or indentation to gain advantage and make anchorage eight or ten miles north by dusk, fifty or sixty tacks later. To say we were in shape by now is an understatement. Lean, lithe, and brown as nuts. The anchorages were largely in the lee of great sand spits, extending sometimes four or five miles into the sea, exposed to the wind but very secure in shallow, hard sand. The seaward tips would usually have a hook, behind which we could hide, watching the great racing swells sweep by in relative comfort and gird ourselves for the morrow. One afternoon we found ourselves trying to round the thousand meter high cape, Gezerat Hamam Farran. We could see our destination, Ras Mal'ab, three miles to windward, but in forty knots and gusting, unreachable. Nosing ten meters off the reef, we hove to and gradually slid back behind the cape to discover asmall area of comparative calm under the cliff where we shot the anchor in fifteen meters of good sand. Whether to stay the night was the question. We were loath to give up the hard won nine miles back to Ras Abu Zenima, and in any event, would arrive there in the dark. The cliff was white sparkling limestone shot through with bands of jet black on one diagonal and rust red on the other. Several fault lines, vertical gave the face the appearance of black and red lightning bolts against a shimmering white background. Suzzi kept insisting the place gave her the creeps. To me it was awe inspiring, especially after the full moon bathed it in light and shadow. The place exuded surreal power. It was a long night keeping watch as the bullets blasted down off the cliff side, laying Prism on her side, shivering the mast like a piece of rope, followed by minutes of calm where the only sound was the foaming breaking crests of the swells just outside and the soft moaning turned to a roar of the descending wind in the crags.

"Outa Here"

Everyone ahead had a less-than-pleasant experience on this stretch, and spent lots of time taking refuge from 50-knot winds and the choppiest seas you can imagine. The wind funnels through the narrow passage between the Egyptian and Sinai shores, so it is a challenge.

During the next 13 days, we stopped at five anchorages and had two overnight passages - one through shipping lanes and oil rigs that was no fun at all! It was quite miserable - especially when we realized we had drifted into the shipping lane at 0200 with no moon, 35 knots of wind, and two ships bearing down at us at 20 knots. However, it did not last that long, was not as bad as it might sound, and we would do it again. At least Dick says he would.

Extracts From The Red Sea Pilot Book....

"Dawn broke on the wildest scene I've ever known ... On either side were the great barren mountains, giving a sense of timelessness as if they had outlived their own souls, and in between lay "Sheila" tossed by a furiously angry sea...we were fleeing headlong towards a narrow exit"

W A Robinsons account of "Svaap"

Like a battering ram pounding at the gates of a medieval fortress we hammered away against our indefatigable enemy, the NW wind. . .There, only 25 miles from Tor, safety, and fresh supplies, we nearly encountered disaster. . ..We had entered the Strait of Jubal, Asia and the Sinai Mountains towered abruptly .. .. At 4pm, there was a sudden shift in the wind and a strange yellowish cloudbank bore rapidly down on us . . It was a sandstorm, the first of our experience, and I hope the last. For the next two hours we were buried in a yellow murk, while wind of hurricane violence tore at us.

So. We wait for a forecast of no wind at all, verify it at 05:00, stick the engine on and drive like a maniac until you suddenly get slapped by 20-30 knots headwinds and then find yourself the next anchorage where you can hide. We have been adopting that attitude all the way up here and it seems to work just fine.

7^th April 2009

We got into Hurghada at about 00:30 yesterday morning and dropped the hook. Luckily the Cmap charts were accurate and we had no problems navigating ourselves in. At 07:30, we moved into the marina and moored Med style, bows first up to the concrete jetty. We were pleased that the wind had not piped up by then and the operation was very simple. Unfortunately, we are pointing South and therefore would like to be a little way off the dock now that the Northerlies are gusting again with a vengeance so we have to use the dinghy to get ashore and a short ladder tied to the dock to get out of the dinghy. I suppose that means that we are immune to petty theft.

We went to do immigration and got our visas and customs were supposed to visit us today but after a whole day sitting on Naz, they failed to materialise and we have promises that they might turn up tomorrow. Hopefully after 48 hours waiting we might get ourselves checked in???

Hurghada is a big tourist resort but no different to any other Red Sea town. Half built, half decayed, where the half-built places are already subsiding and decaying. We know why these people are poor. We had a walk around town and the candlelit dinner ended up in McDonalds without any candles. Fliss (God Bless), decided that the tourist prices here were too much to stomach but we are now enjoying fresh food on Naz and I have now decided that my favourite food is bread and cheese.

We will probably stay here until the weekend when the Northerlies are due to abate again (assuming we have managed to get checked into the country by then). Then it will be a mad rush to see how far we can get before they return - hopefully as far as Suez.

We went for a wander last night & got chatting to a young Egyptian lad, he was telling us that here is a major sex industry for women basically the female version of Thailand. Loads of women all ages come here and buy a boy for their stay. He was disgusted by it. They love the Brits here but hate the Russians & Polish. The Russians are everywhere they were starting to really take over parts of Thailand when we were there.

8^th April 2006

We're still waiting for Customs clearance. They were due to come at 9am yesterday morning then it changed to 12 and then they never came at all, so a day spent hanging around the boat. They are meant to be coming today, we'll see. The problem is you can't get belligerent with them as they can make your life hell. 3 days so far & we're not cleared in Egypt.

Still windy but it looks like we can make a run for it on Saturday.. It's only 180 miles so not far but impossible if the conditions kick off.

Nice people here, the guy next door is going the opposite way to us so I've been picking his brains about the Suez Canal. He said Baksheesh is the way of life so we expect to hand over at least 20 bucks to the pilots. Also the Pilot Boat drivers expect cigarettes and if you don't hand them over they ram the boat.

9^th & 10th April 2009

Spent the day getting fresh stuff for our next leg.

11^th April 2009

After 3 and a half days, we eventually cleared customs. The agency kept promising that they would be there at 11:00, then 12:30 and then 16:30 and warned that we must not get off the boat in case we missed them. In effect, we were prisoners on the boat for most of the time. Never mind, there is not much to see in Hurghada except rotting buildings, and tourist areas - the marina is the best bit. We also had to wait for the weather window for the Straits of Gubal - a notoriously rough bit of sea.

We managed to get provisions from a Western style supermarket and so we now have bread and cheese and eggs etc. It is good to have a load of fresh provisions on board again.

We left this morning only to be told by Toboggan that it was blowing 30 knots in the Gubal Straits with steep waves. They have been holed up in a small anchorage about 20 miles up the straits for 5 days and had poked their nose out for a look - they managed 5 miles to the next anchorage. So we stopped at lunch time and left again this morning at 2am. So far so good but we're not counting our chickens yet. However, if we can carry on as we are we'll be at the top of the Red Sea as the sun comes up tomorrow morning. We're hoping to get a quick transfer to the 1st leg of the Suez Canal, then stop refuel, see the Pyramids and then carry on to Port Fouad to wait for the window across to Crete or Rhodes.

Five minutes after we left the marina we got beeped on the VHF. Graham & Judit on Nomad Life were just coming in. Last thing we heard they were a month or more behind us and have seriously hard-cored it up the Red Sea in one long run all the way to Dolphin Reef followed by a couple of hops to Hurghada. Balls of Steel award goes to them. They planned to re-provision and leave again this morning so we shall see them again in Suez.

After hearing that it wasn't a good idea to carry on we stopped at Endeavour Harbour to wait for the wind & seas to die down. We'll leave early morning tomorrow.

12^th April 2009

We left at midnight and motored in calm seas. There are many uncharted oil platforms and well-heads in the area and a good watch had to be maintained in the dark. At around lunchtime the wind started coming from the SOUTH! We got the headsail poled out and romped along at over 8 knots all afternoon – unbelievable. At dusk, the winds turned gently against us but not sufficient to set up any real wave action and we continued making good progress.

Oil Rigs

13^th April 2009

We arrived in Port Suez after a perfect weather window that the agent said only occurs 3 or 4 times a year. After all the fretting that everyone has been doing about the last run, it turned out one of the easiest legs of the Red Sea.

We docked stern-to against the new plastic pontoon that had been installed especially for the Blue Water Rally and have electricity and water on tap. The place soon filled up after us as the whole of the Red Sea fleet tried to bundle in behind us. They had all taken the same weather window but we had left earlier and beat them to it.

14^th April 2009

Today the weather window surprised everyone with about 30 knots from the South again as a small depression came over. The locals at the dock were asking people to run lines to shore and to mooring bouys further out because they were worried that the dock might break up with all the boats attached to it. It does not look very strong and we were worried when the barometer started rising again and the wind turned 180 degrees and started blowing the other way at about 35 knots. Suddenly, everyone on the other side was asked to run long lines to lampposts ashore. The dock held-up ok and the wind eased again at 21:00.

It was a real concern if it would hold us all. I asked our marina manager how heavy the mooring blocks were and he said 6 tonnes. I said Nadezhda alone we was 16 and with other yachts tied to them is was worrying that it would give under the stress, he just shrugged his shoulders and said “We'll find out wont we”. The pontoon buckled and gave out horrible creaking sounds and one of the pontoon piles was bending over. When the wind died we all gave a sigh of relief.

You could see the wind shift and the sandstorm coming , something was driving all that sand. Very strange to watch.

Light Plastic Docking

15^th April 2009

We waited and waited for fuel in Suez. Again, we had to stay on the boat just in case it was suddenly available. Eventually, at 10pm someone turned up and said "Captain, Captain, hurry, hurry, be quiet, bring your fuel jugs". We had borrowed a few jerry jugs and we walked past security and deposited them in a car that would go to the service station to fill them. The ferrying of fuel to boats is smuggling in Egypt and I assume that they had to wait for the right security guards on the gate who would accept the cheapest Baksheesh.

The fuel was returned and we sneaked the jugs back to the boat whereupon Captain Heebi (our agent) wanted to charge us for 250 litres rather than the 200 that we got (and even the 200 litres was short-changed in regard to the volume in each jug). I carefully explained "The DIESEL FUEL that you have just brought to me" in a loud voice and we agreed on the fee for 200 litres.

16^th April 2009

We got up at 04:30 and we had the pilot aboard at 05:00 and were suddenly off. The transit is split into two parts that must be done in separate days although we could

have completed the whole passage in one. We were lucky that we had a pleasant pilot for the trip to Ismailia where we finished the first part of the transit. We had started out ahead of the shipping and watched as the convoy of larger ships slowly came up behind and passed us. The large ships travel at about 8 knots and therefore created no wake to trouble us. Into the Great Bitter Lake, the larger ships have to stop to await the influx of ships heading South before they can enter the next part of the canal. We carried on against 15 knots of headwind and were ahead of the fleet again as we entered the channel up towards Ismailia. The day was cold and I had to wear fleece and windproofs - we must be getting too far North.

Arriving at the marina and were unfortunate enough to get a space there (if there is space then you must use the marina). If we had slowed down and let the other yachts us overtake us then we would have had to anchor for free instead of paying $21 per night. The marina is part of the Suez Canal transit zone and Visas are not required for passage or waiting at the marina. To go into town we therefore have to get through the security guards with our passports so that they can check our visas. They are a surly bunch of badly dressed low-lifes whose only relief of boredom is is their authoritarian position.

17^th April 2009

We joined up with four other boats and hired 3 taxis to take us to Cairo. Muhammed (the main driver) organises everything for the yachts here including Baksheesh runs for fuel, gas cylinder refills and also taxi services. He charged 200 Egyptian Pounds (35 GBP) per car for the day out and it seemed like a very good deal considering that we were sharing the car with another couple. We went to meet the taxi outside the gates at 06:00 and walked through security without being challenged. At the same time, another cruiser was furtively going the other way with two jerry jugs of diesel. There was a confusion with the number of taxis for a short period during which the security guard must have woken up - he was very irritated, took our passports and told us all to return to his guardhouse. We went with him and he sat there sneering at our passports, shaking them wildly at us and shouting in Arabic until the change of guard turned up 30 minutes later. I think that he was bluffing and blustering because he had been caught napping and after 45 minutes there was a group of 20 people all trying to get though the gates. With safety in numbers and passports in hand we eventually just walked out en-mass, got into the taxis and went.

We visited Gisa first to see the Pyramids. They are right on the outskirts of Cairo but that does not diminish their imposing and collosal size. The postcard touts, "photograph me and my camel" touts, donkey touts, horse-ride touts, turban touts et al are not too aggressive and we had a pleasant time wandering around the area and going inside one of the smaller pyramids as well as gawping at the Sphinx with the other hoards of tourists.

The Cairo Group

From there to a lunch stop and then on to the Cairo museum. Again, this was packed with tourists. Unfortunately, the exhibits were badly labelled and there was very little information about the various historical periods and the different Pharaohs and so we just wandered and looked at loads of similar looking statues and trinkets without really knowing what was what. The Tutankhamen exhibition was very good but again lacked very little visual commentary.

Crew of "Helen Kate"

We returned to the marina at 7:30pm and downloaded the latest weather. After procrastinating over it for 20 minutes, we decided that we could make it to Rhodes before the next set of strong NWesterlies arrives and so we booked our pilot, paid our marina dues and had a last swift sundowner with “Aju” before setting the alarm for 04:30 this morning. At 11:30 last night, Captain Heebi called and told us that the departure was to be set back to 09:00 and so we had a lie-in. There are 2 warships anchored off here and, since we cannot transit whilst they remain, we eventually got cancelled at about 10:30. We will try again tomorrow, and then the next day, and then...... Tomorrow or Monday look ok to get to Paphos in Cyprus and so our next destination will be there. Anywhere really to get ourselves out of Egypt since we have been held prisoner here for too many times - 3 and a half days for customs clearance, 2 days for fuel and now here in Ishmailia wanting to leave. The marina is full of people waiting for the next weather slot towards Rhodes and we do not want to join the lottery of who can get a pilot when the next perfect opportunity arrives to get as far as Rhodes.

18^th April 2009

I got up at 04:40 and awaited our pilot with baited breath. The dockside was deathly quiet and at 05:15 I went back to bed. At about 09:00, a pilot came along and said "Stand By Your Engine" so I went over to him and told him that we were ready to leave. He decided that he then needed to go and change his clothes??! and disappeared. “Helen Kate” and ourselves wandered around and eventually they then turned their engine off having also been told to "Stand By Your Engine".

When we were eventually told that it would be 11:00 before we were leaving and having had the latest forecast of strongish headwinds, we cancelled them. I don't think they were coming back anyway and with the 20 knot headwinds and 45 miles of canal to get through, it would have been 8pm before we even reached the end of the canal. Another boat left a bit later and was followed by his mate who did not have a pilot. They were intercepted and turned back to the accompaniment of lots of shouting and swearing (usual practice in these parts).

We took a walk into town and got nabbed by the local TV station who filmed us walking down the flower gardens by a small canal tributary. They wanted our views about Ismailia and filmed us. We said a few nice words (the town is probably the cleanest and greenest we have seen) and were told that we would be on the evening news. If so, this is the second time we have been on Egyptian TV since we were interviewed about the tourist bombings when we were in Luxor many years ago.

19^th April 2009

We did not even bother to try and leave today. "Barefeet" tried and waited from 05:00 until 11:00 when they had word that it would not happen. We are going to give it a go tomorrow but I don't think that there is much hope as it is a national holiday today and so no-one will be booking places for tomorrow.

Last night we helped “Nomad Life” with Jerry Jugs of diesel. The diesel delivery system in Port Suez has shut shop and so loads of boats here need to re-fuel. It is the usual Monty Python scene where word leaks out that fuel is now permitted to pass through the guards. People on their boats watch as the first brave sailors carry empty jugs to the gates and then wait 5 minutes to see if they return empty handed. If they don't return then there is a mad rush to the gate where utter mayhem ensues with the guards trying to hold people back and gather Baksheesh. Some people sidle silently through whilst others argue money. The guards are getting a bit worried about all the White Faces walking down the road with jerry jugs and last night forced everyone to take an overpriced taxi. However, conditions and regulations change hourly. Occasionally the limit per boat was 2 jerry jugs, then, due the the number of runs being made, that rule was lifted. Other times no fuel is allowed, other times, fuel is allowed without Baksheesh, other times baksheesh needs paying. We had an easy run today with no hassles - at 20 US cents per litre it is worth getting. A guy getting fuel walked with us to the guard gate today and the guard wanted to see our passports. The guy with jerry jugs had forgotten his but whilst the guard was examining ours, he simply walked through and kept going without looking back. We think that when the weather window presents itself for going NW, we are going to have 50 boats all wanting to take the opportunity - maybe we simply need to all slip our lines together and get out of here - what can the authorities do?

So, we are going to try and leave again tomorrow. I don't think it will happen but we shall try. In the meantime, "Barefeet" are having a NOT LEAVING barbecue this afternoon.

Oh. In the taxi with Nomad Life last night, the taxi driver offered for Judit to sit in the front. On that leg of the journey he repeatedly atempted to touch her up even though Graham was sitting in the back. Judit held her rucksack firmly on her lap and treated it as a joke but I sat in the front on the way back. Many of the Egyptian men are lecherous filthy perverts who don't have enough camels to go around. We now know why the women here wear burkhas

19^th April 2009

After yesterday when there was a public holiday and a big party in Ismailia, we decided that there was no opportunity to leave today. Eventually, the marina officer turned up at 8pm and we put our names down again for departure tomorrow. The marina manager told us that, if there were any pilots available, then they would turn up at 8am.

21^st April 2009

At 5am this morning, we heard a knocking on the hull and got up to find a huddle of pilots trying to wake people. We cast off our ropes at 05:30 and went past one of the anchored boats blowing our fog horn in order to wake them for their pilot.

The pilot was another very agreeable man who we got on with well. Normally a pilot boat takes them from us at Port Said but he arranged to be set down on a boat moored alongside the quay. He had said that the pilot boats can be nasty (if not enough baksheesh is paid) and can be very careless when picking up the pilots. The other word for it is "ramming". So, we set him down alongside and, just as we pulled away, a pilot boat came roaring up screaming "Where is your Pilot!!!!". We pointed backwards and smiled sweetly before turning and entering the Mediterranean.

Our friendly Pilot

Only 5 boats left today. Barefeet are going to Rhodes (daft considering the forecast) and two Dutch boats are going to Turkey. Another French boat left as well but we don't know who they are.

22nd April 2009

The winds were not initially as strong as forecast so we gently motored towards Pathos.

Just as the sun set the wind increased. We'd been studying the weather so we knew that as we approached Cyprus the winds would come from the North West eventually to head us, so we went North West early to get a better angle on the wind for Pathos. Good job we did as we would never made it in a single tack.

The forecast was for 15-20 knots but as we know what they really mean is 25-30 with nasty steep seas.

Unfortunately Fliss had been sick for the last couple of days (farewell gift from Egypt) with painful stomach pains and feeling very unwell so I had most of the night watch.

23^rd April 2009

Arrival Pathos, Cyprus 05:30 this morning. Hello Europe!

Paphos Harbour and Marina

We anchored in the harbour and went to see the port police. Then we did customs and health and the paperwork was swiftly dealt with. The rest of the day was spent asleep until about 5pm when we went for a meander along the front and Fliss eventually got her candlelit dinner (with a real candle!). The food was not as good as her own home cooking but it was a nice change and very civilised.

24^th April 2009

I went and paid the harbour master (36 Euros for 6 days) and then reversed Naz alongside another boat here with a couple of Scots aboard (Stewart and Margaret). We then walked around the seafront and found our way into the old Roman ruins and mosaics by the back gate and so saved ourselves 7 Euros in the process. Then, onto the flower display at the local old church which turned out to be Anglican and was full of ageing ex-pats selling bakewell tarts and chutneys as though they were at some rural English village fete.

We decided that the vast expense of the meal the night before had got us into spending mode and we both decided that the torn and tatty trousers that have suffered salt degradation needed upgrading and went on another spending binge with one pair for Fliss and one for me. We haven't needed trousers for a long time but they are necessary here in the evening. After a (much tastier) meal aboard Naz, we went aboard the boat next door for a glass of wine and then bed.

25^th April 2009

Today, is a rest day. I am trying to use a bad internet connection to get an updated AVG and Fliss has got the bit between her teeth and has gone shopping again (Bras this time). I might work myself up to a little boat maintenance later if I can summon the energy.

26^th April 2009

Today,we explored a little further but the outskirts of Paphos are little more than tourist resorts and the frenetic building of villas and chalets. All a little bit faceless but it certainly did our legs a bit of good being able to use them.

I think that we have therefore 'done' Paphos and will probably leave early on Tuesday morning and see how far we get Westwards. The plan now is to probably go as far as Kekova Roads in Turkey and coast-hop it too Greece. If we are lucky, we can do this without checking into Turkey and, once in Greece, that should be the end to our checking-in and out formalities.

Aldora arrived this morning and have rafted up next to us. They have brought our Turkish and Greek cruising guides (that we hastily left in Ismalia) and so we now know where we might like to go en-route to the Western Mediterranean. We will only have a brief time to visit the islands but at least we can now make some sensible choices of destination.

Fliss cooked a Shepherds pie last night with sprouts - it was delicious but the sprouts gave us some unwanted side-effects. Unfortunately we do not have bacon joints but we can get bacon here which is great after our journeys through Islamic territories.

27^th April 2009

We set off again this morning at about 06:00 bashing into the waves with the motor on as usual. The wind was light but there was a sea running, holding us up. It is a short weather window with light winds before stronger Westerlies appear and we hope to make it to the Turkish coast before it arrives.

The Red Sea

24^th February 2009

We decided to make an early start with Aldora at 06:00 and go to Ras al Arah (20 miles short of Bab el Mandeb). We had a stonking sail at over 7 knots average and Aldora did not lose us too much. When we arrived at the anchorage, the army went over to Aldora and told them to leave, Aldora pleaded tiredness via sign language and we were allowed to stay overnight.

We had to leave Aden as our free 72 hours was up. One of the soldiers climbed on the yacht with his AK47 swinging wildly about, the gun was pointing straight at Johns head. John gestured that he was unhappy about the gun & the guy gestured back that he meant no harm. We haven't got visa's so that's why they told us to leave. Another boat stopped at another anchorage & they were told to leave straight away so we were lucky really. I think they army took pity on John as he had 3 children onboard.

Leaving Aden

25^th February 2009

Pete....

Today, we set off at 03:00 for a run to somewhere.

It appears that we are now headed to Ras Termah where 3 other boats are also headed after being told to move on by the Yemenis. We hope to get a better reception here in Eritrea where we will plead that we are headed to Massawa to check in formally and need some rest.

The natter on the radio is all about weather. It seems that the convergence zone between the Northerlies and the Southerlies is unusually low at this time of year and we therefore expect headwinds earlier than we wanted (actually, we don't want headwinds at all). Tomorrow and the next day look good for moving on again with a 03:00 start for 180 miles to the next anchorage that will give shelter regardless of the wind direction (N or S). We hope to arrive before 14:00 the next day to make sure that we can con our way in.

Well, I got it wrong, it was about 95 miles to Ras Terma and we arrived shortly after 16:00 after a stonking good sail with up to 2 knots behind us and gusting 40 knots winds only the third time downwind when we have had to resort to the third mainsail reef. With the current behind, the sea was relatively flat and we did some good speeds almost catching "Purr", "Cormarant" and "Kirsten Jane" who passed our anchorage earlier in the morning and had a 20 mile head start.

2 Knots up the Chuff

"Purr" at Ras Termah

Sunset at Ras Termah

26^th February 2009

No peace for the wicked though. This morning we left as a group at 03:30 to do the 180 mile trip to our current anchorage. Again, we had a real blast with the wind behind touching 8 knots through the water and having up to 1.5 knots current at best times. Our plan was to get in sometime today on the basis of calms overnight but we had only about half an hour becalmed and had to reef right down to reduce boats peed overnight. The fast cat "Aldora" had shot ahead in the strong winds and by 23:00 had gone to bare poles still running at 5 knots - they eventually resorted to towing a milk crate to slow down for the daylight arrival.

Then of course, 20 miles out and the wind died completely followed by about 8 knots bang on the nose. We stopped sailing at 10 miles out and therefore did not run the engine too much. "Purr", "Cormarant" and "Kirsten Jane" took the inshore route and had little wind all night and motored most of the night. We and Aldora stayed outside the 20m line and fared better.

Northerlies are forecast and all 5 boats intend to sit it out here. First impressions are favourable and we might even find a reef to go snorkelling on.

27^th February 2009

We arrived at 10:30 today and we have simply chilled out and done nothing all day apart from have a cool off in the sea and checked the prop for missing pieces and cutlass bearing wobble - no problems. The sea temperature here is perfect for swimming but the water is a very murky greeny colour with bits floating in it - all probably due to the minuscule plankton and such-like that glows at night.

It's Pizza again tonight. Since Fliss has learned the art of making them from scratch, we have had them regularly (only to use up the 300 peppers, chillies, tomatoes and onions that she bought in Aden of course). Ready in about half an hour, yummy.

Pizza Tonight!

Windy from the East, Northerlies forecast for tomorrow so Sunshine, wind and lots of power means "Movie Night" tonight. It will be almost a matinee because bedtime will be before eight o'clock

Local Fishermen wanting fuel etc

28^th February - 4^th March 2009

Fliss....

We're fine and just hiding out in a beautiful bay, the forecast is for strong North wind. Sheldon our mate who's delivering a 65 foot Cat to the Med emailed us to say that he's had a right hammering trying to get to Egypt, the waves tore the trampolines of the front of the boat and he said it was a terrible experience. Sheldon comes from South Africa & sailed the Southern Oceans loads of times (it's where they have the freak waves & horrendous winds) he's got 250,000 sea miles under his belt (we'll have about 35,000 by the time we get home) for him to say it was terrible means you don't go out. The winds are due in sometime later on today so it's boat jobs, movie watching & just chilling for the next four days... Suits me as I'm tired of all this sailing. Someone said we could be hear a week, we'll have to see.

Pete from Purr came over and suggested that I throw away the manual and try something different. He got a stiff, thick piece of wire and a jubilee clip and told me to attach the wire to the prop flange and line it up against the gearbox flange. Having also stopped the shaft moving backwards and forwards using another jubilee clip against the stern gland, I could use the wire as a reference point against the centre of the shaft. We found that the engine was out of alignment both horizontally and vertically by this method so I spent all day tweaking here and adjusting there with every movement putting something else out of alignment. When all was well, I tightened everything up and having done that, then had to re-align again because I had taken up some slack.

I eventually finished the job and placed the two flange faces together. I had none of the flange face misalignment that I originally thought was due to the flang being not exactly 90 degrees to the shaft and I could not get a 2 thou feeler gauge in anywhere around the flange faces.

After letting the nutlock dry on the flange bolts, I started the engine and gave it a try. The results are inconclusive at the moment since I had the engine cover off and everything was noisy anyway. Funnily, the engine seemed to have more vibration than usual at minimum revs and this was felt also in gear (even though tickover revs are still the same). However, we have not yet done any sea triails and will leave that until tomorrow. Also strange is the fact that the engine still nods back and forth under power - I thought that the proper alignment would have fixed it.

Well, after finally aligning the enine in all directions and letting the loctite dry, I started the engine and, even not moving and in neutral, it was vibrating the cockpit floor at tickover. I did a couple of forward and reverses and decided that the sea-trial would wait until today because it was damp, windy and not enticing to get the hook up.

Pete from Purr came over and had his "stethoscope" to the engine as we shimmied around. I had don the same yesterday and could not find any obvious problems and nor could he. The noise and vibration still occurred when in neutral with the prop turning and Pete got a wooden pole and loaded it onto the engine which stopped the noise. He eventually pinned it down to the aft starboard engine mount that he told me was soft and wonky. To prove the point, he wound the holding nuts up 2 and a half turns and the pre-loading immediately solved the problem. Obviously what has happened is that my better alignment has taken load off that mount and allowed the engine to rattle disturbingly and rather oddly in time with the prop turning leading us to think that it was the gearbox chattering.

So, all my efforts at alignment are now useless with a cock-eyed mount that we have pre-stressed. I will try and get another mounting somewhere between here and the Med but I am not holding out much hope. Pete said that any old mount will suffice as long as the dimensions look ok.

We eventually got off the boat today and took a walk across an island nearby. We found a camel skull and extracted a few teeth for souvenirs as well as some lovely shells. Pink flamingos were wading in the shallows and three very tall grey waders were wandering ashore, we have no idea what they were but they were huge.

The Desert Scene

4^th March 2009

we decided to join Aldora today for the 37 mile run to Shumma Island so we left Purr, Kirsten Jane, Cormarant and Aju at about 06:30 this morning and it looks like motoring all the way against a light headwind.

The Blue Water Rally are back in the vicinity. We heard one of them on the radio yesterday and there are three sailing boats off our starboard side as I write. They are headed for Suakin in Sudan (about 50 miles South of Port Sudan) as their next congregational meeting. We are also headed there but will wait for some decent weather to get us there. The Grib Files promised Southerlies on Saturday or Sunday but as we get there they are starting to change their minds. A southerly (or at least, not a N'Westerly) would be very useful since there are no anchorages for 120 miles as you cross the Eritrean and Sudanese borders. Let's hope. The Pilot book says that the Red Sea passage is a waiting game. Generally, at this time of year you can get to Port Sudan with Southerlies if you are lucky. From there it is headwinds all the way unless a freak weather pattern emerges - in which case be very careful!

The engine is sounding ok at the moment but is now out of alignment again due to loading the poorly engine mount. I have thought about drilling through the engine bearing bulkhead and strapping string through it and over the mount to hold it down firmly. Then, I could probably re-align the engine and hope that the temporary fix lasts until I can get a replacement.

5^th March 2009

we motor-sailed again today the 30ish miles to Dohul Island (although the log read 37 miles). Headwinds and current against us but we arrived at about 14:15 and, although the anchorage looks exposed, there is little wind and it is supposed to stay that way through tomorrow.

The anchorage last night was pleasant although the run through the reef was a bit unnerving since we have had low grey cloud for the past few days and the visibility through the water as a result is very poor. However, CMap matched up with hand bearing fixes and also with the GPS Co-ordinates in our guide book so we were ok even though the >1knot current was pushing us sideways until into the pass. The leading lines were impossible to make out - the rear one was an easily seen stone cairn on the hill but the near one was a small pile of rubble that was the same colour as the surrounding sand and stones. I eventually managed to find it after anchoring by scanning with the binoculars. Four rally boats were there and two have just motored past us to go the extra 10 miles to Harat Island.

If the weather remains calm, we will stay here tomorrow with Aldora and do a bit of swimming and engine checking (are the bolts tight? Does the stern glad leak, etc etc). Hopefully then the wind will turn Easterly then S'Easterly and we will do a big hop to Suakin just South of Port Sudan. A bit of planning is required to make sure that we come through the approaches in good light since there are a plethora of reefs thereabouts.

6^th March 2009

We had a lay in today until about 08:00. Just after we woke and turned the VHF on, Aldora called up and suggested that we get going immediately for Suakin with the view that we could do an overnighter and then be far enough (at or past Khor Narawhat) so that we could anchor before dark tomorrow and then do the last leg in daylight. It sounded good but we had to shift it and get going immediately. The first part of the morning was a bit dead and we motor sailed. Later we managed the cruising chute and took it down when we started surging at 8 knots. The breeze has filled in now (15:00) and we are getting along at 7 knots with smooth seas and winds from the East.

The wind should stay with us until Monday Morning and we hope that we will be snugged into Suakin by that time. Then, it is rest time for however long and a load more boat maintenance. Engine to try to firm-up, rigging to check and turning blocks to wash (the fine dust collects everywhere).

It was a bit of a pain leaving in a hury this morning but the plan sounds good and cruising with Aldora has its benefits - they have a water maker and have given us 80 litres over the past week.

7^th March 2009

Well, the wind abated as the land cooled in the evening and by 21:00 we were poled out and doing abouy 5 knots. Not long after, we turned the engine off and then gybed as we motor sailed. Later in the evening, we gybed again as the wind came a full 360 and had the engine off for about 2 hours between 05:00 and 07:00. From there on, it was motoring without sail-assistance as we must have had about 1 knot of appararent breeze or less from the front ( 4.5 knots from the rear).

We arrived at Khor Narawhat at about 14:30 where Aldora had just arrived having entered the North Channel where we entered the Eastern Channel. Soon after we arrived, the wind picked up and there is now a good breeze blowing. We have 84 miles to go to Suakin and must therefore leave here at about midnight to ensure a daylight arrival. The first of the coral dodges starts in 46 miles and so we should have good daylight to spot surf and darker patches by the time we get there. There are many ways to jiggle through the reefs; The inside passage that is tortuous, the middle passage that our CMap chart shows bearings for, the outer-middle passage that has a few extra miles. We are going for the middle passage that eventually runs very close to the coast for the last leg. Aldora wanted to do the inner passage - don't know whether they have changed their minds but I personally do not want to be cairn-counting through reefs with only a few hundred yards or less either side and dodgy charts.

It looks as though we will be motoring all the way, the Southerlies that were predicted actually arrived but at 5 knots rather than the predicted 15 - better than Northerlies! More engine alignment, securing and maintenance ahead.

Fliss....

Great snorkelling. We saw huge brightly coloured fish that we haven't seen before, the coral was healthy too. I am a bit nervous in these waters as there's meant to be Hammerhead Sharks which are aggressive and real predators. We all snorkel together so safety in numbers. We did see as the sun set the other day a group of sharks by Naz, unusual really as their not meant to be pack animals. Pete reckoned one was the size of me. The rule is no swimming at dusk & dawn as that's when they come out to feed. We don't want to miss the snorkelling here but we do keep looking behind.

8^th March 2009

We bashed to windward luffing the headsail a bit but still doing 6.5 knots at 40 degrees to the wind. We were astonished at how well Naz behaved but the seas were flat as we were in the lee of a reef. As we turned up the inner channel, the wind was dead ahead and we took the sails down and motored against it. The pilot book has good instructions for the entrance keeping a minaret on the old ruins at 215 degrees until a conspicuous chimney appears at 181 degrees and then follow that track. Luckily, we read some cruising notes that said

"The Pilot suggest passing within 20 feet or so of the ruins on the right (going in). Good idea. Three boats, including Pilgrim ran aground on the way out and had to be pulled off by the helpful harbour master and his tug."otherwise we would not have believed that the bearings took us so close to the shoreline. We stayed about 30 feet off the shore which was about 10 feet from the fringing reef and, being only the third boat in the anchorage, there was plenty of space to choose a spot to anchor. No less than 4m depth at any time. The Blue Water Rally and the Vasco De Gama rally are due soon - Ha, Ha - we were here first!

Apparently Suakin was the main port here in Sudan and was a slave trading centre at one time. What happened was that the merchants moved to Port Sudan for economic reasons in the '20s - and took with them the actual cornerstones and coral bricks from their buildings! This began the initial collapse of the city that time and wind have now pretty much completed apart from the remaining minarets that were left untouched and still stand above the rubble.

9^th March - 17^th March

Walking into the centre of the town is like walking back in time 1000 years. The rubble of the original city gives way to the shanty town of today with market traders selling on the streets or from their small shacks. We were woken by the braying of donkeys this morning and these provide the main source of transport here towing makeshift carts with wobbly wheels sporting bulging misshapen tyres. The place is brown and dusty but the fruit and vegetables and the clothing "stores" add splashes of vivid colour to the scene. Someone likened the place to be right out of an Indiana Jones movie and I could not describe it better. A few brightly dressed camels roam around, we bought flour that had just been ground using an old petrol driven milling machine and we wondered at how the old diesel single-pot engine that was pumping the well was still going after the years of service it must have already contributed. There is no electricity in the town centre so everything must either be done by hand or combustion engine (of which we saw only three).

The place is so different to anything we have seen before and the people are very friendly. We were met by Muhammed to do the officialdom which was painless and we have swapped our passports for shore passes so we do not actually have a visa here. Apparently this is not an official port of entry but cruisers are welcomed. I am not sure what happens when we leave and whether we will have to buy a cruising permit for the rest of the run to Egypt.

Vodaphone Anybody?

Can you spot the toilet?

Suakin

I will get on with some boat jobs whilst we are here (the winds are pumping hard out of the North so we will let them abate) and we will also catch the local bus into Port Sudan for a look at what is there. Taking the boat into Port Sudan is supposed to be very expensive and we shall try to avoid that.

Fliss.....

The people here don't look desolate & seem quite happy. We haven't seen any beggars, which is surprising. I would imagine further inland would tell a different story though. They are a stunning race, very dark and have gorgeous ebony features. The women who are Muslim wear these stunning coloured robes which look amazing against the background.

We've had a great time in Suakin but it did end on a negative note. Pete & I decided to meander the back streets (ruins) to Naz and we came across a load of camels laying down scratching themselves in the mud. Anyway we walked closer only for a 10 year boy to start throwing rocks at us. The boys father (I think) came running over shouting at the young boy to stop. He then came over shook our hands and gestured for us to walk away. The sad thing was we would have liked to know what his problem was. We hate negative endings.

Port Sudan Goods Transport System

Suakin Video

17^th March 2009

We arrived at Port Sudan after about 35 miles of headwinds. We left at 05:45 with 7 other boats and there are 4 of us who opted to stop here. 4 of us decided to long-tack up inside the reef but, as the wind headed us, two gave up and put the engine on. We eventually decided that the tacks were getting shorter into steeper seas and did the same in the narrows of Towartit Reef before bearing away to Port Sudan and getting the engine off again. The hard labourer who kept on tacking was Spanish and kept going under sail at a surprising angle to the wind, we are not sure where their final destination is since afternoon sun and Marsa (reefed inlets) entrances are not good in the afternoon sun.

We will do the same tomorrow and do either 28 miles to Marsa Fijab or 38 miles to Marsa Arakiyai. The weather looks as though it will be OK for the next few days and we plan to get 35 miles per day until we run out of half-charted navigable water at the Egyptian border. There we will wait until the weather looks good for the run across Foul Bay.

We shall not be going ashore here since they apparently charge huge fees, hopefully no-one will come to us and we shall creep out tomorrow morning at first light. Theoretically, this is allowed.

18^th March 2009

We left Port Sudan for Marsa Arakiyia at about 05:15 this morning and had a decent hour of sailing before the wind died and then headed us. From there it was motoring all the way again. I think that this will be a recurring theme for a while since we want to eat up some miles and do not want to short tack between reefs.

We have just been visited by two suspicious looking men in a rotting glass fibre boat who claimed to be army officials and wanted to look at out passports. Having given them a cursory glance, they then wanted to know where we were from. "Port Sudan" I said. "No, No - wear u fram?" they replied. "Oh. British". "Ok. Ingleterrer". "Yes, England". After that, they were on the cadge for some cigarettes and so I told them they could have some tobbaco and rolling papers - they were not interested so we got away without payment.

We caught up with the boats that left Suakin yesterday and so there are an amazing 8 boats in the anchorage. I think that most of these are coast hopping as far North as prudent navigation allows before jumping across Foul Bay. However, the weather window looks perfect to have a shot at it right now and we might be tempted but haven't yet got into the mindset of an overnight passage into headwinds. We will wait until the next window of opportunity.

There is not much here apart from the usual small smattering of small wooden huts and brown sand although it is very peaceful. If we were energetic, we would launch the dinghy and go for a wander but that seems like hard work right now especially if we are off again tomorrow at the crack of dawn for the next leg.

19^th March 2009

We left Arakiyai with the other boats at about 05:30 yesterday morning and managed to sail for about an hour before the wind headed us and, again, we did not want to short-tack between reefs when the charts are so inaccurate. We went past a post marking one reef and the Admiralty had it positioned over 2 miles South of where it really was. Luckily, we had the sketch chart from the Pilot book plus some waypoints that worked out accurate and we led the fleet through the narrows bashing into the wind and waves and digging our bows into the waves at about 3 knots. Outside the reef, we bore away and got half the headsail out and bashed and crashed our way out to sea a while. People say that the waves have a peculiar square shape here, I would enliken it to being in the middle of a set of overfalls. Anyway, by getting a load of distance out to sea, we were able to tack and make the course to the Taila Islands and the inside channel. As we got behind the reefs, the seas calmed and we then beat our way to Marsa Inkeifal to anchor for the night (20 deg 47' N, 37 deg 10.34' E). Toboggan was there and had been holed up there for a week waiting for better weather, yesterday it was only blowing Northerly 25 knots where the previous days had apparently been 30 knots plus. We went over for a couple of drinkies with them and then called an early night and went to bed at 19:30 for a 05:00 start this morning.

20^th March 2009

Today was much better, calm seas behind the reefs and Islands as we started out and then a gentle swell once out and more exposed. Again, it was motor sailing but we managed to make best use of the sails and had a pleasant journey to Khor Shinab. The entrance is supposed to be difficult to spot but we had no trouble with the waypoint given in the Pilot Book and the winding route to the anchorage was easily followed. We are now safely anchored in a barren but beautiful inlet.

"Aju" a Dutch couple seem to have adopted us and appear to, informally, want to buddy-up with us. They want to make headway North tomorrow to Khor El Marob and we are wondering whether we stay here for a couple of days or move on. We will have to stop somewhere for a few days since we decided not to catch this last weather window for the big push North and now we will have to wait for the next. Aldora have suddenly decided to catch us up (we passed them yesterday at the Taila Islands) and so we will have another set of opinions to listen to later. It is slightly comforting to have company in this desolate place but cruising in groups causes differences of opinion. Sometimes in the past we have simply said "we are doing this" and generally the company then submits and does the same. At the end of the day, the weather (and how you interpret it) dictates movements.

21^st March 2009

We left at a reasonable 06:00 this morning and made good progress motoring with about 5 knots southerly blowing. W arrived at 11:45 at Khor El Marob. Toboggan were already here having aborted their plans to get across Foul Bay because the later weather files indicated that the window of opportunity was about to close on them. Aju and Aldora left with us and we are now anchored in a rather beautiful anchorage although it is a bit deep here at 20 metres. Toboggan got the 7 metre patch but it is coral that they are sitting on - we hope that we are on sand because we don't want to foul the anchor at this depth.

We are resting here today and tomorrow and then making a dash for the next anchorage on Monday before stronger winds appear from the North. There is apparently good snorkelling and reasonable walking here and the rest will be good. It also gives me time to check that all the nuts and bolts on the engine are still secure and to do some overall checks on Naz.

Well, after the light winds this morning, the wind did a 180 shift and within half an hour had picked up quite strong. Everyone started playing with more anchor chain and Aju moved to anchor just behind us. The next day, the winds were blowing 30+ knots from the North and Naz was hunting back and forth with our full 80m of chain out. As it increased in the afternoon, I decided to put out our second anchor on 15m chain and 100m of 22mm Nylon rode so that we could rest in peace. The maintenance took a back seat since we wanted Naz prepared for action.

Khor El Marob

Fliss....

You can guess what happened after we put the 2^nd anchor out, yep, within 10 minutes the wind died.

The water is so cold that we could only snorkle for 15 minutes but the coral was beautiful and loads of brightly coloured fish.

23^nd March - 31^st March 2009

At 05:00am everything was flat calm so we raised the dinghy, got the anchors up and all 4 boats left for the 30 mile jump to Marsa Halaib. The wind picked up to about 15-20 knots soon after we set off and we motor sailed North out between the reefs and then tacked off for a good close-hauled sail to our destination. It was good to actually get some sailing in at last rather than trying to dash from one place to the next before the winds picked up and the angle of the sun obscured the reef passes.

As we approached the Marsa, we heard the local Navy talking to a yacht already in the anchorage. They were enquiring about our approach and the people on the yacht said that they would talk to us and ask our intentions - I think that the Navy were unsure about their use of English. Anyway, we anchored near the local Navy Patrol vessel who visited us immediately and checked our papers. They were very cordial but no snorkelling and no going ashore is allowed here due to the sensitivity of the area. The land used to belong to Sudan but is now firmly in Egyptian hands as shown by the naval presence, the watch tower and the 5 large shore-based military cannons.

This is the last stop before Foul Bay and we are now waiting for a weather window that does not look like appearing in the next seven days. We know of a couple of yachts that made it across in the last window but, even then, I felt for them if they have had weather like we have. Many other boats have 'gone for it' only to scurry back into an anchorage as soon as daylight allowed. Toboggan did the same and went into Khor Marob at night following a GPS trail that they had from another yacht that they are able to show on their chartplotter - damned foolish if you ask me since the charts are of little use at best and are very misguiding if you actually believe them.

After yesterday's respite and a quiet evening, the wind started blowing again at about 04:00. I went out to add a bit more scope and others were playing with anchors as well. It has died off a bit but has kicked up a load of dust so visibility is poor and Naz is again plastered. The rigging and lines never have recovered from the dust that has blown over the last month and are a dirty chocolate brown. The decks and lower areas get washed as we gather spray and waves over the bow but the high salinity of the Red Sea means that these areas become frosted with salt deposits. What we need is a serious downpour.

29^th March 2009

The Egyptian Navy said that we could come to their boat an obtain some fuel. At a dollar per litre it is quite expensive but it is worth topping up the tanks. I only took 40 litres since that is all we have the capacity to carry in our jerry cans and I am hoping that they will let me have another 40 litres today so that we can leave here with full tanks and full jerries as well. I got to the Navy boat with my empty jugs, I heard a hissing coming from the dinghy and found that the inflatable floor was quickly getting soft under me. It had chafed on a bolt that holds the retractable wheels on and worn through so I had a small job of removing it and patching it.

Also, I found that the bilge pump that empties the grey water tank had got a leak. It appears that this has been a problem for some time since the bilge had collected quite a quantity of water. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the bilge pump extricated from its location and decided that removal was utterly impossible without taking apart the steps from kitchen to the lounge. After fighting with the pump, I decided that the leak was only coming from the bottom inspection hatch and so removed it, replaced the rubber seal and re secured everything. Once we have some more grey-water to pump I will know whether my efforts have worked. The alternative is to take the pump apart in-situ.

The weather forecast is looking good from tomorrow until the foreseeable future and so it looks as if we will be moving on tomorrow morning. If all goes well then we will take the window and go straight to Port Suez rather than stop anywhere and get holed-up again for days. With any luck then we will be there by Saturday although a glitch in the forecast for about 12 hours on Friday or early Saturday may cause us to interrupt our passage for a short time.

Aldora have just passed by in the dinghy. They had been talking to the Navy about supplies and it has paid off. They have just dropped off tomatoes, potatoes and onions to us. We offered to pay but they said that the cost was so small that it was not worth bothering about. The three kids on Aldora love Fliss' pizza and I think that the veg was a bribe for Fliss to make a couple and take them over tonight.

Dinner with "Aldora", "Toboggan", "Aju" and "Tulamain"

Red Sea Dust

31^st March 2009

We are over on our ear in what I must again refer to as the Red Sea overfalls. We sailed out and met 20+ knots on the nose with waves from 2 directions. Yesterday calmed down a bit in the afternoon and we turned the engine on to make way through the waves. This evening it picked up again and was truly wet and miserable.

We are thinking of calling it a day and stopping at fury shoals where there is supposed to be a good reef anchorage.

The other boats that sailed with us are still nearby and two are thinking of carrying on whilst ourselves and Aju are thinking of stopping and waiting for the weather to listen to the forecast.

1^st April 2009

The wind died a bit this morning and the seas flattened out a bit but the current, wind and waves were against us and we were tacking with motor across a 90 degree angle (pushing it a bit) doing twice the distance of the rhumb line. Fliss and I decided to make for Dolphin Reef (Fury Shoals) and anchor for the night rather than beat ourselves into it.

The other three boats (Aldora, Toboggan & Aju) decided to carry on to Port Ghaliab which is another 112 miles. With the angle of the wind, that makes it 200 miles tacking through the water and strong winds are forecast for late Thursday (tomorrow). I hope that they either make it in or find one of the few anchorages along the way. Either way, we are tired of doing double the distance that we need to, running the engine to stave off the "Red Sea Overfalls" and getting sodden with salty spray. We made it across FOUL BAY ahead of the pack and have decided that a good rest before a short dash tomorrow is a darned sight preferable to continuing. The short dash is either 45 miles or 90 miles tacking into wind - we are not even sure that we will make our expected landfall tomorrow so will need a bolt-hole for when the hit kicks the fan later on.

A little word about weather forecasts........6 knots means about 15 knots. 60 degrees means 345 degrees. We will not go out in in anything predicted over 10 knots - and never have here!

The anchorage here is beautiful with crystal clear water such that the bommies were easy to see and we weaved our way to the northern arm of the reef for great protection and smooth azure water. It has been nice to stop. The reef is called Dolphin Reef and, soon after anchoring, a group of small dolphins came cruising past Nadezhda to admire her. If the forecast tomorrow is more than 4 knots directly in the face (read 13 knots) then the sea (read overfalls) will stop us from moving and we shall stop in this lovely place. It is abit like Minerva Reef in the Pacific where we are surrounded by waves but nothing enters the anchorage.

So that's where we are - we wimped out but are looking to a different window of opportunity on Sat/Sun. Don't want to go to Port Ghalaib since the charges are beyond our means.