Madeira

Thursday 7th September 06

Headsail only towards Funchal and we were speeding along at up to 7 knots. We got accosted by Mr Marina man just past the headland. He has no chance enticing people in, when there is a glorious bay just around the corner – what an unrewarding job!

We had great winds and scooted along past the airport. Apparently, the pilots have to do 5 test-runs before being allowed to take passengers – Very steep hills around!

We had great winds behind us and they died as we reached the headland before Funchal. We could see the white crests only a half mile away but were becalmed. We motored the rest of the way into an increasing headwind.

According to the guidebook, the holding is patchy but the Bruce anchor went in first time (as usual) and bingo, we were secure. Cleared immigration before investigating the centre of the town.

Friday 8th September 06

Another glorious day in Madeira so we did the tourist thing. So, we headed-off to the cable car to visit the Botanical Gardens and also get out permit to visit the Isla Salvengas. At the top of the first cable car, there was another “Tropical Garden” that was expensive and certainly overrated. We were amazed by the “African Art Exhibition” that left us bemused by the lack of art.

So. Off we went to the Botanical Gardens via the next cable car that took us downhill. On the way down, we decided to play with the other tourists…..unlike many sailors, they all waved back! What was an absolute treat was the bird of prey that was perched on the cable-car wire. We watched him fold back his wings and dive-bomb towards an outcrop of cliff. He landed hard and tumbled down over the rocks until falling off the edge of the cliff and regaining his composure by soaring off with his next meal.







The Botanical Gardens where lovely but we felt that we were too late in the year as most of the blooms had withered.






So, with our mission to secure permission to Isla Salvegens we walked up & down, then down & up, the exceptionally steep manicured hillside. We went to every building possible trying to find the “Park Control office” The searing heat & altitude proved to be a mission in itself.

Eventually a lady who no spoke no English guided us to a back-office and a “Very nice man in uniform” told us it was not possible to issue a permit “from here” and he gave us a phone number & told us to call.

Pete tried to call in Funchal and the lady who answered spoke only Portuguese so we were getting nowhere.

In desperation we tried the Marina office who told us that the number we had been given was in-fact the Botanical Gardens! She was brilliant and sorted out the permit which was faxed within 15 minutes.

Saturday 9th September 06

Not a lot to report as it was “jobs day”

Sunday 10th September 06

Hire car booked for 9am so early up, sandwiches made, and off we went. This proved an interesting experience as Pete & I hadn’t been in a car for a while. (Pete) I took the keys tentatively, not only had I not driven for two and a half months, but this was in a car with the gear-stick on the wrong side and drivers on the wrong side of the road. (Fliss) I must say that Pete did really well as I’m a terrible backseat driver and he managed to cope with my groaning, clutching the dashboard, and telling him to slow down (Pete) As we managed to brave second gear, Fliss’ complaints of “watch-out!” and her white knuckles were not helping my concentration. (Fliss) I think that one needs to remember that there was steep, and, I mean steep drops and 20 miles ph seems massively fast after being on a yacht. Anyway, no harm done & no common-in-law divorce papers issued. I am amazed that he didn’t stop the car & tell me to walk back. (Pete) Yup! Madeira is steep, The switchbacks took us higher and higher until the precipices at the side of the road gave us vertigo. Green abundance and flowers edged the side of the steep and winding “old roads” that we favoured over the new tunnels that drill through the island.





Central Madeira








We climbed over the central divide and descended to the grottos (caves) that we decided to visit. These are caves left by vacated lava channels that criss-cross through the base of one of the mountains. We thought the caves were very interesting with flat and rippled floors and petrified drips of lava from the ceiling. Our guide thought differently and was bored beyond belief – and she let us know it. After the tour we were subjugated to the Madeira 3-D glasses “Volcanic Experience” and the “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” – Tacky! The museum showing how Madeira was formed was given ten seconds and was probably the best bit if you are interested in Geology.

We drove around the North Western coast and then back into the central highlands where we took a walk to Rabasca and on to a waterfall and then further downhill and around Levadas to springs (25) that emit from half-way up a dried-out waterfall. Lovely. The Levadas are man-made watercourses that are cut into the hillsides and cliffs. Yes…Vertical cliffs have incisions and tunnels cut into them just to enable water to be channelled for irrigation and these are often used as walkers’ pathways. At least they are fairly level but those who suffer vertigo should stay well clear!.



Waterfalls & Levadas



















Of course, having gone 1000m downhill, we had to come back up again. For some reason the day seemed to get hotter, the breeze died and the amount of shade that we remembered on the way down had disappeared.

Madeira is in the grip of more forest fires than it has seen in a lifetime. As we wiggled our way back to Funchal we saw the black plumes of smoke across swathes of the island. Returning to the boat, the lack of wind meant that the pall of smoke simply stayed, covering everything.

Monday 11th September 06

Jobs to do repairing the boat. We visited every boatyard and chandlers with no avail and had to botch-up the guardrail that had broken having been work-hardened due to our fenders (for the dinghy) bouncing up and down in the considerable swell in the rocky and rolly anchorage. Did a bit of a walk around Funchal and retired to the boat for 2 or more “Sundowners”.

Tuesday 12th September 06

Lazy day & just chilled-out on the boat no point in exploring as the island was surrounded in a black smoke haze.

Wednesday 13th September 06

We hired a car again to have a look at more of the interior of Madeira, Nuns Valley was unbelievably beautiful. Pete decided that we should take a “Laveda walk” which comprised of 30 minutes down a very steep path (you always have to come up) which lead down to a main road and then we spotted another path. This path lead us through overgrown allotments and just appeared to be going higher & higher! So a decision was taken to head back down. The brambles & little rocks made an interesting descent with me (Fliss) taking a bit of a tumble and scratching my arm, which needed emergency rinsing in the cold river water, being a heroine I didn’t whinge too much shame really as there was a lot of mileage in my terrible injuries. (Pete) The narrow path was supposed to lead us up a narrow ravine to the beautiful waterfall at the end. We tussled with the undergrowth with Fliss bemoaning the fact that the path was leading us no-where. Eventually, I reluctantly agreed and we scratched our way back down through the thorns.

(Fliss) The ascent back was hot and a serious climb! But hey another day in the office!

Nuns Valley

(Pete) We drove to the (second) highest point of Madeira where the mists were accumulating in the deep ravines and bursting out over the ridges and peaks. Absolutely gorgeous and we took a short walk along some of the walking trails that are cut, like the levadas out of the solid rock. The views of the volcanic Jurassic peaks were superb. We eventually retired to the boat having left the car unlocked and the keys in the cunning hiding place above the sun-visor for the car-hire people to retrieve (Island life is different).

Thursday 14th September 06

(Fliss) We arose late, and went to the fish, flower & veg market. The fish are amazing, there was a tuna steak the size of Stewarts chest and this was the leftovers as most of it had been filleted & sold.

The flowers looked like exotic tropical birds, absolutely stunning!
Vegetables certainly didn’t comply with EU standards but tasted great!

(Pete) We could not be bothered to go and see the Dolphins, Whales, Sea Turtles, Lions, Tigers and Bears, as we would lose our best place in the anchorage. Instead, we scurried to the marina to fill up with water and scurried-back again before taking the dinghy ashore to re-provision.

(Fliss). We keep seeing the same old yachts, and, tonight, we had a conversation with a Dutchman. Apparently, the Guardia had visited a French boat and asked them to pay 25 Euros for each night to anchor in the harbour. The, young (20’ish), brave, and immensely foolish young man ripped-up the form and threw a tantrum. This was early afternoon and Friday morning, they were nowhere to be seen. I have visions of the movie Midnight Express, and, if you have seen it, then you will understand what the poor guy might expect. Once they stick the form back together, I am sure that he will fill it in and pay the 25 Euros.

We have not been asked for any money and allowed to fill our water-tanks for free, I can only assume that Pete is not pretty enough!

Madeira Summary

Beautiful, stunning and very dramatic with high mountain peaks, deep ravines and lush green foliage. Madeira is a walkers paradise. The roads are a major feat of engineering as are the levadas that are often used as level pathway between the steep slopes. We are both agreed that Spring must be the time when Madeira is at her best.

The locals are extremely friendly and incredibly helpful but we cannot help but feel sorry for the local tourist businesses, as they say that tourism is dying due to the cheaper option of the Canaries. This, to us, is unbelievable since they are worlds apart in their appeal. The Canaries are a seaside destination whereas Madeira’s charm is in her interior but, beware, to see her glory, you have to earn it with some serious legwork.