29th January 2009
We left at 9am this morning for Salalah in Oman. What a great place & we had a magical time there.
Sheldon & Vanessa are about half a mile on our left hand side, we're hoping that they increase their lead over night as otherwise I'll have to watch them all night. They're very sweet and I think they're keeping close so that they can keep an eye on us... They've again offered us diesel if the wind doesn't pick up. We're not used to sailing so close to another boat.
All's well on board & only 1218 miles to go to Oman.
30th January 2009
Pete....
Last night, we put away the cruising chute and put a single reef in the main as we always do. We had motored on and off during the day to keep the boat speed up and did the same overnight. As long as we were doing over 5 knots, then we were happy.
Today has been a good day (I slept for 6 hours) and we have made good progress with full sail at about 6 knots. Zappler is even further ahead and we hope that they give up on us and keep going since it relieves the pressure of trying to keep up with a boat with twin engines and a lot of fuel. We shall have to see whether they still want to convoy with us since the 3rd party interested is a fast sailing catamaran. When we suggested that we keep a minimum of 5.5 knots through the Gulf using engine where necessary, Sheldon thought that 6 was a better figure - unfortunately, if there are light winds, that would mean motoring all the way which is impossible for many cruising boats.
31st January 2009
After a period of no wind at midnight last night, we got a decent breeze all night although fairly close hauled. Today was a mixed bag with light airs but we managed to sail 90% of it and are doing 5-6 knots at the moment.
Apart from that, there is little to tell.
We added our bit to the Cruisers Gossip yesterday as we had received a mail from Toboggan saying that French military had arrested 9 pirates off the Yemeni coast. Fliss got wires crossed and told Sheldon that 7 Yemeni pirates were arrested off the Yemeni coast and he told a yacht that he was passing this morning that 7 Yemeni pirates were arrested and were probably co-ordinating with the Somalis. We will soon hear that Somali Militia, in conjunction with Yemeni coastgaurds and customs officials are mounting pirate attacks based on information fed secretly from the Joint Task Force.
Another bit of Cruising Gossip is that the Joint Task Force has moved its corridor of protection somewhat further South and that this change is to take place on, or around, the 6th February. The reason was that there were too many Yemeni fishing boats in the present corridor and that this was causing a lot of security overhead with each needing to be checked.
1st February 2009
We have been lacking wind here in the Indian Ocean and the ride has been very stressfree with slight seas. The motor goes on and off at least 5 times a day as we use tickover speeds to generate apparent wind. Sometimes, the sails just flog and we really have to motor. Toboggan are 240 miles ahead and have decent wind so we are hoping to catch some of that in the near future.
Sheldon has zoomed off into the blue with engines running hard. He can motor all the way and I suppose that is what the owner wants - fast passage times, less risk.
2nd February 2009
After a night of turning the engine on and off to keep us going, the morning saw an increase in wind and we have about 10-15 knots getting us along at 6-7 knots. In fact, it is perfect sailing conditions with the wind at about 60-70 degrees on the starboard side with little in the way of waves. We have full main, jib and staysail with not much heel. Probably because the starboard side has all the weight since we store the heavy stuff that side and are using fuel and water out of the port side.
Fliss made bread yesterday and has done another load today. She makes it in the pressure cooker which is very energy efficient and it comes out a bit heavy but very tasty. We are looking forward to digging in.
Fliss....
I had a busy day today, well busy by my standards. I started my watch at 7am and then made lunch, baked bread & then did dinner. All this done with Naz leaning over on her side. the wind kept picking up so we had to put 2 reefs in the main but it kept getting windier so I got Pete up twice in the night to reef the headsail. By the time I went to bed at 12:45am I had been awake 18.5 hours I was tired & thoroughly fed up with life on a boat. I think anyone out here doing this feels this way somedays.
3rd February 2009
The forecast that told us of headwinds has changed its tune and it is quite possible that we will keep these conditions until we arrive (although the weather forecasting is a bit dubious). The winds tend to increase overnight and die off during the day, probably due to cooling of the deserts even at this distance,
More bread today!! Yum Yum. And Fliss has also made an Omani flag so she has been busy.
4th February 2009
With the weather forecasting strong headwinds to come we are pinching up as high as we can so that we have a decent sailing angle to the wind when they arrive. It's hard work as you cannot relax on night watch as you have to keep a constant eye on the sails. At night the conditions are gusty so one minute your ticking over at 3 knots and the next your screaming along in the high 8's. Very difficult trying to set your sails for comfort.
5th February 2009
Well, we are glad that we had been nibbling away to windward since Monday. Last night, there were some ominous waves coming from ahead and the Navtex told us of a Shamal in the gulf of Oman and other coastal areas that we could not recognise. The Grib file had played down the Thursday Northerlies since its forecast on Monday but they arrived at about 04:30 yesterday morning. I furled some turns in the headsail and then did some more about 10 minutes later. 10 minutes after that, I got Fliss up to put the second reef in and we ran like that all day with about 30 knots and seas that seemed to be coming from every direction causing us to pitch and roll with loads of water over the decks and in the cockpit.
Getting Wet
The winds abated somewhat at 16:00 and I got a couple of hours sleep, then noodles, then sleep until midnight. Fliss had got some more headsail out by then and she went to bed. The seas had calmed down very nicely. About an hour later, I had re-reefed the headsail and by 02:00, I got her up again to get the third reef in the mainsail to try and slow us down. So, it's now 04:00 and I am hoping that the winds eventually abate some time today.
Our original estimate of arrival has been extended since we are getting 2 knots of current against us. We are hoping that we will make it into Salalah by Saturday sometime in morning daylight hours. Hopefully with calms although they say that the Shamal can last up to 2 days.
I should not be so optimistic in my outlook!
6th February 2009
Winds are easing and we got the third reef out about half an hour ago, also a bit more headsail!
still looking at tomorrow morning for landfall although it may be in the dark as the current has also eased against us.
So, Happy bunnies here and hoping that we do not get a lull followed by a repetition.
The Net today was all concerned with yachts about 500-600 miles behind so no news about local conditions but, never mind, we are looking forward to better to come.
It's 17:20 local time and we have only 2 reefs in the main and the wind has veered so much that we are able to pole the jib out but still keep the staysail going. I love the staysail when you are heading into wind and have nothing but a scrap of headsail peeking out, the staysail can be kept going and pulling with the correct shape. Other than that, it's so small that it is pretty useless - but very good in a blow.
The wind has eased to about 20 knots but when it is 120 degrees apparent, it feels like bliss. We still have current against us (now making waves rather than calming them) but we are hoping that, as we close the coast, it will reduce.
GPS tells us of 12 more hours to go but it may be more since the forecast is for the winds to slacken early tomorrow morning.
So, all well with us looking forward to landfall, kissing the last Ocean goodbye and hopefully we will be able to find a space in the crowded anchorage
7th February 2009
The last evening was bliss with wing-on-wing gentle surfing on the swell. We arrived as the sun came up which was good timing and motored around the small anchorage trying to find a space. A 20 metre yacht motored past us at speed about half an hour before we got in and we arrived just after it. After trying a number of different spots where we swung too close to others, we eventually plumped for a place just close to the breakwater and nabbed the spot just as the larger boat had the same idea. The larger boat is part of the Blue Water Rally and he eventually convinced port control to allow him and other members to Med-moor against the dockside.
Fliss....
We love landfall! As we arrived Ben & Corrola's little children were jumping about in the cockpit, waving and shouting “Salaam al haykum, Pete & Felicia” “welcome to Oman” they really are a lovely sweet family.
Little Nials hero worships Pete, as in the Maldives he watched Pete swim under their boat. The little boy (about 5) couldn't contain his excitement, his arms & legs we're thrashing about and he was shrieking in laughter, calling his dad saying “Papa, Papa Pete just dived under Lassa”.
I spotted 2 shells on the sea bed and Pete dove down for them, Nials was transfixed by this. Pete resurfaced and we gave the shells to the kids only to be told by their parents that they had dumped them overboard the previous night. How funny!
The little girl Lisa (4) is my shadow, if we go anywhere I have to sit with her & I'm often invited over for a massage.
Sheldon & Vanessa asked If I wanted to go shopping with them. Pete being shattered stayed on Naz and got some sleep. We went to a butchers which isn't for the squeamish as they had a huge wooden block covered in blood with an axe next to it. The walls were splattered with blood and the meat just laid on a dirty looking work surface. I bought steak so he took a lump of meat and sliced bits off. Vanessa knows her meat & she said it was very fresh. Thank god we didn't turn up earlier as I couldn't watch an animal being butchered. Hypocript I know.
The veg & fruit are gorgeous looking & I picked up some pears which I can't wait for them to ripen.
We hope in the next few days we can take a trip out into the mountains to see the Bedquins, sink holes & caves.
It's a fascinating place with the women in full Burquas & then men in white flowing robes. They all look so beautifully turned out, It's not a poor country as they all drive around in 4X4's.
We went out for dinner with Sheldon, Vanessa, Nancy & Steve, delicious steak but not cheap as our bill at the end of the night came to 35 pounds. Mind you we didn't go short on beer or wine.
It takes me back to the time I was in Dubai. Camels everywhere and dusty white cubed houses. It's not scenic but I do like it here.
9th February 2009
Sheldon drove me to the fuel station and lent me some jerry cans as well. The security people at the dock entrance checked our passports for the appropriate visas and had a look in the boot on the way out and also stopped us to look in the boot on the way back in again. The security guy then proclaimed that we could not bring diesel into the port without the correct paperwork. Luckily, Sheldon had a mobile phone and the number of Mohammed the "man who arranges everything". We sat in the sweltering heat at the port entrance for half an hour and eventually Mohammed turned up, had a quiet word and we were allowed through. Other yachties had to wait until 16:00 when apparently getting fuel was "allowed" and they all convoyed in cars to bring the diesel in.
I misjudged how much we needed and had a panic when the tank was full and the funnel was also full. I am going on a hunt today for someone who has decent water containers that we can borrow to re-water.
We had our first convoy meeting yesterday evening but it turned into more of a social event rather than anything else. Unfortunately, I think that the two catamarans are much too fast for us and we will get left behind. The other catamaran is a 50 foot Outreimer that will not be able to slow down with a good wind behind. John told us that he can take down all his sails and still run at 12 knots when there is a good puff from behind. Three boats (Skeedemusnke, Toboggan and Lasse) are leaving tomorrow and we wish we were going with them since we have known them for a long time and we are much better matched for speed. They had invited us and even said that they would wait until we were ready but we feel that we have committed to Sheldon and have to honour that. Oh Well.
10th February 2009
Fliss.....
Today I had a ladies day with Vanessa & Kerri. We decided to visit the Souks & do some re-provisiong.
There really wasn't that much too see as the Souks were just shacks selling tourist tat. As I walked down a street and old man said hello to me, so I said hello back he followed us into the shop & started shouting at me for money, well I think he wanted money. Vanessa & Kerri carried on looking at things ignoring him, I couldn't as he was just a few feet away. The male shop owner was lost for words & it took his wife in full Arab Bhurka to tell him to go. It was awful as I didn't know what to do, damned if I'm giving someone money if when he's shouting at me.
Provisioning is excellent but it does come at a cost, but after a month or so not being able to re provision we're more than happy to blow the budget, we owed a few luxuries.
11th & 12th February 2009
Just MORE boat jobs
13th February 2009
We took a run out along the coast in a hire car. The mountains and gorges are quite spectacular but the visibility is down to about a mile due to desert dust hanging in the atmosphere. It is all over everything, right through the boat and there is no point cleaning it up since more settles straight after. Apparently it is a phenomenon that occurs rarely so, although we cannot see much, at least we have experienced it.
Fliss...
Lovely day out & really nice to get of Nadezhda for a few hours. The blow-holes were great. Before the water appears you can hear this loud roar and then the water shoots20-30 feet in the air.
The sun looked so strange as it was really white and almost eerie.
We also saw loads of camels being herded down the road.
Blow Holes
Fliss & Crew of Zappler V
Camels
14th February 2009
Today is busy, busy day before departure tomorrow. We have contacted UKMTO in Dubai and have organised our anti-piracy vessel reporting details that need registering via the internet later. I have e-mailed them so that they can send a large document to us when we get our internet connection. They were very helpful and described the differences between the fast Yememi fishing skiffs and the faster Somali pirate skiffs. I think that they are getting concerned about the number of alarmist calls from boats (probably sailing vessels) who call emergencies via VHF whenever they see small, fast boats - the fishing skiffs run at about 20 knots trawling for tuna.
No comments:
Post a Comment