The sky is splattered with stars and the milky-way arches over us. The slither of reddish moon has just slunk beneath the horizon (which means it must be more than 3.6 miles away and no longer a navigational hazard).. Venus dominates over all on the starboard-quarter. Only two times before have we seen such a spectacularly clear night sky and this was many moons ago (forget the pun!). The sea is calm, the wind-gen has gone to sleep and we motor gently across our little goldfish bowl whilst staying perfectly in the middle of it.
The winds of yesterday morning kept us going at a brisk pace of 6 to 7 knots all day. Perfectly on the beam, we had a very comfortable sail in perfect conditions. The sun has shone all day but the air has had a cold pinch that has kept us in our fleeces.
At about 15:30, we were down to 5 knots and Fliss suggested that we deploy the cruising chute. This should have returned our speed to 7+ knots, but by the time it was up, the wind had deserted us and the mainsail slatted idly and the chute sagged and billowed, and sagged and billowed. So, back on with the engine again and conditions have not changed since (apart from the fact that it is now dark).
Without the wind, the conditions warmed-up considerably so I got the solar shower out, filled it with the crystal sea-water and sat it on deck to warm-up. The solar shower is simply a black polythene bag with a hose and sprinkler attached to the bottom and supposedly heats the water under direct sunlight. Anyway, I did not have the patience to wait that long and we both therefore had a not-quite-tepid sea-water shower followed quickly by a warm rinse with a freshwater flannel. Bliss. Tonight, it’s back-on with the less-than-fresh thermal underwear.
Less-than-tepid-seawater-shower
Just after the shower, the depth-sounder lost its reading as we passed over the edge of the continental-shelf. We are now truly out of the English Channel and are formally in the North Atlantic Ocean. We decided that this was a cause for celebration so cracked a beer each after which I went off for another 4 hours of glorious slumber.
During the day, we had seen a number of schools of dolphins playing at a distance. I awoke at 22:30 (half an hour late for my Watch) and shortly after, Fliss heard a splash close-by. Suddenly we were surrounded by streaks like torpedoes through the water as a large school of dolphins joined the boat. Ahead of the boat splashes of phosphorescence told where small fish were breaking the surface in a vain attempt to escape as the dolphins swarmed after them. We sat at the front of the boat watching at least 20 dolphins herd the shoal amazingly clear considering our only light was the onboard navigation lights. The dolphins stayed for over half an hour, gorging themselves, chatting to each other in their high-pitched click and making low whistles as they surfaced for air.
Now, all is quiet, the fishing boat to starboard has turned, is now showing its stern-light, and moving ahead of us. Another cup of coffee is called-for.
Wednesday 28th June - Fliss
My god Pete I didn’t realise you could be so poetic!
A truly amazing day.
The shower incident was so funny, not that Pete’s Sunday best is funny but there he was in the cockpit having a cold shower in the North Atlantic. The salt-water soap he bought is ok for the skin but useless for your hair.
Not one for being left out I also gave it a go, actually the shower works really well it would have been nicer if the water was warmer and the boat wasn’t rocking so much. Pete didn’t escape the camera, enough of this for now.
I have never seen a sight so spectacular as the dolphins, the hunting skills were brilliant to watch the way they used Nadezhda to direct the fish. We were wondering if the fish were attracted to the light or the vibrations of the engine but the hunt went on for a good 30 mins or so. Not sure if Pete mentioned this but one dolphin turned on it’s side and looked directly at us.
It’s now 8:15am and I have been on watch since 7ish. Were just going through a shipping channel so sadly I had to disturb the skipper as we had a massive tanker bearing down on us, I was told to “hold my course” and all was well as we passed side by side.
Since then I have seen loads of different boats all travelling in different directions I have decided to stop & leave it for another 10 minutes before waking Pete.
Memo to oneself :Stop reading Yachting Monthly horror stories on super tanker near misses.
Whilst typing this I have dolphins playing with the bow of the boat in-fact they’re everywhere jumping in & out of the water.
Kids, I would have loved you to have been on the boat and witnessed last night it was a fantastic show and the sky was indescribable, saying that Pete did a good job.
Summary on this part of the trip:
I have loved all of it so far, the big seas, different weather & the wild life. The getting used to sleeping on the boat whilst she’s moving proved difficult for the first night but now we both have got used to it. Neptune has been kind to us with the weather and seas and I’m looking forward to La Coruna for our well-earned bottle of cheap champagne which we bought in Falmouth as we are saving all the good stuff bought as gifts for major mile stones.
Just turned the engine off as we have more wind and the sun is shining, this is the life.
Really strange thing is that I used to fret terribly at home about long passages and their perils but I now I wish I hadn’t wasted so much time & energy. I realise that it won’t always be like this but it does give you a feel good factor.
Hope every one is well & lots of love.
Morning Sun across the Biscay......
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