Again, the majority of boats here are British. We even outnumber the Spanish.
We ventured into town with the wind whipping around the dinghy. The town of Muros is lovely with cobbled streets and old stone house clustered around the harbour. We spent time wandering around the back-streets and up and down the narrow stairways that rise above the seafront before stopping in the local bar to watch 20 minutes of France versus Portugal. Don’t know who won but France were 1-up when we left to ensure we were back on the boat before dark (we have mistaken other boats for ours in the past).
Thursday 6th July.
We awoke early with the sun beating down. There appeared to be no wind but as we motored out of the bay, a breeze stirred and we turned-off the engine. We took the inshore route between the rocks out of the Ria and therefore had the best scenery as we gently ran goose-winged (one sail out on one side and the other sail flying on the other side) in calm waters.
The wind backed as we headed down the coast and we pretty-much goose-winged all the way. Nice and warm with the wind behind us, we did not feel the cool air. Again, we took the inside route into Ria de Arousa and as we turned-up into the Ria, we realised just how hard the wind was blowing. This was exaggerated by the funnelling effect of the hills and we blasted along with a top speed of 8.5 knots (very good for Nadezhda).
Entering Ria Arousa
Note for ourselves: The wind picks-up in the afternoon and is not noticeable when running downwind.
We’ve come about 10 miles up the Ria de Arousa to a place called Puebla del Caraminel. We are anchored just outside the marina off a sandy beach. A local police/coastguard came and got fenders out as if he wanted to board us, but he simply asked how many people were on board and seemed satisfied at that. Considering that he came from nowhere, we wonder whether the marina are miffed at the loss of revenue and asked them to check us out!
Talking about anchoring…….with wind in our sails and with sheltered Rias which are good for anchoring, we have eventually achieved the low-cost budget cruising that is also planned for the future. Today, we had bread and ham for lunch and a Spanish omelette for dinner, total cost of a couple of Euros.
This evening is blissfully warm and we can afford a beer on-deck with the awning-up to keep the sun off us. Fliss has fallen asleep outside, so no word from her today!
Friday 7th July 2006
Fliss………
Hello, not sure what happened last night but I crashed out on the deck, something to do with the immense heat and being totally chilled out.
Normally I suffer from extreme insomnia but I’m sleeping like a baby, it’s fantastic!
Left at 07:45 for our long journey to Ria Pontevedra (16 miles) and reached a max speed of 8.11 knots.
What a stunning place this is! We are anchored at a small island called Isla Ons of a beach which is fringed by clear azure seas and perfect white sand.
Tunny net fishing at Isla Ons
I was clearing up the decks after laying the anchor when someone caught my eye, she was either wearing a skin coloured bathing suit or was in the buff. Curiosity getting the better of me I checked it out on the binoculars, Pete of course had to confirm my suspicions and low and behold we had anchored off a nudist beach. Pete and I giggled like two naughty school children.
We took a walk to the light house and down to the ferry pier and double checked that our beloved Nadezhda was ok (we haven’t left her unattended with the new anchor).
Isla Ons Lighthouse
We love it here as the scenery is stunning, food and drink is cheap, no Hamble scramble to deal with and best of all no tides!.
Tomorrow we are off to Ria Vigo which I believe is around 10 miles.
Having a great time! Wish you were here…
Isla Ons
Pete………………..
42 degrees 23 minutes decimal 282 N, 8 degrees, 55 minutes decimal 427 W
The Rias are definitely worth the time spent in them. In fact, we could spend a good couple of months here if we had the time. The Ria de Arousa is cited as being a “cruising ground in its own right” and the off-lying islands and intricate inlets are superb. Rocky coasts and perfect beaches.
The Grib forcast for the next few days is Northerly force 4, Northerly Force 4, Northerly Force 4 which suits us fine. However, as we sit in our anchorage, it is certainly a very “good” force 4 blowing offshore. We have just watched a yacht scream past with just the jib hoisted and hope the wind direction does not change overnight since the anchorage is not exactly sheltered from the NE or East.
Yes, a little shocked as the lone female wandered as bold as brass in the nuddy. She was soon followed by what you might mistake for a German who had a large arse and strutted backwards and forwards along the shore. We went for a long stroll across the island that is quite high in the middle with the lighthouse perched right on top. When we returned to the beach, they were all at it!……minkies and winkies everywhere!
I braved a swim off the boat earlier and this lasted a good ten seconds as the water is f,f,f,f,freezing. We have also had the fishing line out but, even though we know there are fish down there (you can see them at the ferry quay), no bites so far.
The ferries are now ploughing-in to take the naturists back to the mainland since there is no real accommodation on the island, so we will be left in peace with the beach and the island to ourselves. Hopefully the wind will ease for a pleasant and warm evening.
Saturday 8th July 06
Fliss……..
Hello, lovely evening last night at anchor as it was just Pete and I.
We left Isla Ons at around 11am this morning (too early for the entertainment) bound for Islas de Norte. Very little wind so we ghosted under head-sail alone.
The sun shone and we did around 3 knots and just relaxed as we didn’t have far to go.
I must say that the Ria’s just keep getting better as Islas de Norte is absolutely stunning again clear azure water, lagoons, white sandy beaches. The sand is so fine and deep that it’s hard work walking, your feet sink into it.
Arrival at Islas Cies (Ila del Norte)
Pete asked me a tricky question yesterday and I had to answer it honestly, Solent or the Rias for cruising, I had to think for a few minutes (not really) and it has to be the Rias. What a wonderful place to keep a boat as this part of the world has so many beautiful islands and all within a few hours.
A bit concerned how the Portuguese coastline will fare as northern Spain has been spectacular and the weather keeps getting hotter and wind favourable.
We’ve ended up anchored off a beach called Faro a real Spanish tourist destination, the beach is packed & there’s loads of boats anchored.
This place wouldn’t be out of place is you stuck it into a brochure for the Caribbean.
Amazingly enough we haven’t seen a British boat for days but one has just turned up.
Were planning on staying another night and just moving anchorages as Isla de Norte is so beautiful and we have plenty of time before we have to be in Lagos to meet Robyn.
Pete………..
42 Degrees 13 minutes decimal 4 North, 8 Degrees 53 minutes decimal 9 West
Not really much more to add. The Islands are steep and hilly with granite outcrops and tree-lined sides. The rocks give-way to sweeping sandy beaches and crystal waters. Imagine the Isles of Scilly but with a bit taller. An amazing place to keep a boat, the local sailors are really lucky.
Anchorage - Islas Ceis
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