Pete………….
We had noted earlier that there was a place that offered book swapping for free in SanLucar. So, after the main heat of the day had abated, we crossed back to the Spanish side of the river with 5 books stashed in our rucksack. We followed the crude map that was posted on the pontoon gangway into a little side-street. There was a door with a cardboard notice attached that was blank. Turning it around, it declared that this was the right place and, assuming that the wind had flipped the sign, we entered to be greeted by a black Labrador and a tan Labrador who were very friendly. We called out but no-one seemed to be at home. However, there were clear instructions that we should leave as many books as we took and that swapping could only be done from three designated bookcases. There was a very good selection and we perused for some time before exchanging goods and leaving. On leaving, we decided that the reversed sign meant “I am out” and therefore flipped the sign back again. The owner is very trusting to leave people to wander into their house – quite refreshing.
We took the dinghy over to the Portuguese side to visit the Portuguese fort. There was an entrance fee that outsized the interest inside but we did learn that the fort, amongst other duties, was indeed used to fend off the folk from the other side of the river.
Later, as we sat on a terrace overlooking the river taking afternoon refreshments, we noticed a solo sailor anchor close to Nadezhda. We returned to the boat shortly afterwards just before the tide started to turn. As it did, the adjacent boat started swinging and snaking and coming very close. We had decided that we would move down-river a few hundred yards to avoid the local canine kafuffle disturbing our sleep and so were not concerned. However, the Belgian owner who had been ashore came over in his dinghy and said he would move his boat. We, instead, invited him on board for a drink and it appears that he is a bit of a disaster area having hit things, run aground on rocks and had many other misadventures. As he was regaling this, his boat took a monstrous swing and we were all fending off as he stepped across and moved his boat further away.
We eventually had to part company when dusk arrived and we moved Nadezhda just before the light failed.
Fliss ............
Nothing to add really. The Belgium man was really pleasant but was a walking disaster, He said that he had had enough of solo sailing and was going to sell his boat and find a new wife. I think he was lonely. Shame we had to move as he offered to cook us Belgium chips.
Thursday 10th August 06
Pete…………..
I awoke early and prepared the boat and got going down river. The morning sun gave a nice light on the river and its banks and we had an uneventful run downriver on the flush of the last 3 hours of tide.
The bridge did not seem so low on the way back as we reversed under it to get a good look.
We anchored off Ayamonte and went ashore to re-provision.
Friday 11th August
We set off to catch the last tide out of the Rio Guardiana and set the sails for El Rompido about 15 miles East. There was no wind and we sat there for a couple of hours going nowhere. Eventually, we had to start the engine in order to get to the shoal entrance before the last of the spring flood and therefore motored most of the way.
We entered the river that runs just inside a 5-mile-long sandbank and caught the fast flowing tide up river amongst high speed motor boats (the majority of boats around here are power-boats and they are always driven at full-throttle). We anchored just off the town and bounced up and down as the motor-cruisers, speedboats, power-launches and jet-skis raced either side of us.
This coastline is now getting to be a bit tedious. Although the Guardiana was a nice relief, the brown sludge of the river coats the boat and we are in river sludge again in El Rompido and other places further East. The coast is one long, low-lying beach interspersed by high-rise tourist apartments and hotels. We have no wind here and the heat of the day is oppressive making it difficult to do anything without breaking into a sweat, slurried with sun-tan lotion. Sitting in the rivers it is not advisable to cool-off in the water.
It will be nice to move to clearer waters with less motor-traffic.
Fliss........
I agree with Pete it’ll be nice to see something different a real shame for Bobby as it isn’t spectacular scenery, I have high hopes for Sancti-Petri, which is described as the Caribbean of Spain. Here’s hoping eh!!!
Were off to see the sights of El Rompido.
Bobby…
It doesn’t really bother me that the coastline isn’t as spectacular as the Ria’s as I am having a wicked time with dad n Flikka however I think dad wishes I had seen some of the west Portuguese coast or north Spain. The weather has been exceptional so far, the sun making the days almost unbearably hot, but unfortunately there has not been much wind. Due to this, we haven’t made much progress on the sailing front, only having sailed a measly 37 miles in the 9 days I have been here… that suits me though as I get a bit nauseous at sea.
I’m really going to enjoy my time here at El Rompido as we then have a 50 mile sail, which will take us 10 hours if we have good wind which as of yet needs to make an appearance or if we motor which is not going to happen (its too expensive.)
Not much else to say really, dad and Fliss have pretty much summed it up nicely…
Sunday 13th August 06
Fliss
El Rompido. Cyrstal clear water, tranquil sand dunes, stunning beaches with an attractive & quaint fishing village, beautiful trees hug the banks of the Rio Piedras.
Umm did we blink and miss it? Are we in the right place? Did Detlef Jens (the author of the pilot book we are using) actually come here? There is no clear water, tranqil sand dunes, attractive fishing village, stunning beaches but we do have trees.
There are more motor boats than the Solent on a busy sunny Sunday, the constant whirring of engines with owners loving to come as close to Nadezhda as possible. Many many jetskiiers all revving past at top speed, you’re attacked on both sides!
We would leave but due to the immense shallows and tides we have to wait till later on tonight.
Anyway yesterdays events.
Dinghy launched for shorebased activities & off we go to explore El Rompdio, no sand just thick black sludgy goo. Unfortunalty we had to carry the dinghy quite away with the goo squelching between our toes as we navigated through broken glass, dead fish and other detritious that littered the shore, to add to this joyous event I noticed an outfall very close to were we were walking. I’m glad that El Rompido is very small and has few inhabitants as we could have been up to knees in thick, black, questionable goo.
The village itself is really quite nice but not a lot to do apart from drinking beer and mud walking.
Good news is that it has cooled down a little and there are rumours about some wind tonight.
Today has been uneventful as we are waiting for the tide to change so that we can go to Chipiona (around 50 miles).
Pete……………
And to add to it, Fliss and I had jippy tummies this morning that made us feel weak and lethargic. A lazy, day being harassed on all sides and bouncing up and down on the wash. We even had some waves land on deck as they splashed up our sides. So much for the aforementioned tranquility!
El Stampede'o
Be glad to get out of here. We would have left this morning but I did not want to leave on a falling tide since, if we touched bottom and stuck, we would be neaped – stuck for the next few weeks – Arrrgh. Anyway, we will get going tonight and head for Chipiona.
Bobby……..
Although the mud left skanky black bits under our toenails and the tides have not been in our favour, we can wash our toes and wait for the tide… its not that big a deal.
The village was ok, admittedly not as quaint and pretty as Faro, a friendly residential town like San Lucar or a lovely little market town like Ayemonte, but it was ok. There were very few facilities – a supermarket and a grocers – and only a lighthouse to look at.
Today, after a few games of Rummikub and me teaching myself to do cryptic crosswords ( nan and grandma do them and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about ) dad and I explored the small local beach. Not much else to tell really, though we found some mother of pearl and are going to try and get some more as its prettiful!
I’m having a really good holiday so far and I've only got 2 weeks left : ‘ ( but im missing my mum, glen and the rest of my family and best mates. Looking forward to getting home and having a nice pizza or a portion of chips ( my mum is a bit of a food natzi but here you cant cook junk… healthy stuff only to an extent,)
Sunday 13th August 2006-08-15
Fliss ………….
Hello again, it’s 11pm and a beautiful clear evening, shooting stars and a number of dilemmas!
Go into Chipionia in the dark (we would arrive at 1am) not desirable.
Go to Cadiz again in the dark (arrival would be 4ish) not desirable
So we have hove-to about 12 miles off Chiponia. 1st time we have done this and the boat is behaving really well a gentle rock and doing 0.50kts. and so far not a boat in sight.
Pete is due to go and grab some shut eye, Robyn is tucked up in the living room & I’m on 1st watch.
The sail has been good! nice close reach, steady wind (probably a force 4) and Robyn wasn’t unwell, in fact she helped me find my way through a maze of fishing pots as Pete was trying to get some rest before landfall (we’d going been going 20 minutes) We must have had to avoid at least 50 of the low-lying scallywags.
Pete then re-appeared and said there’s pots all around you, to be greeted with a duo of “we’ve been dodging these for the last 30 minutes”. They were everywhere!
So after and hour of hoving to Pete re-appeared and said “Sod this for a game of soldiers lets run to Cadiz, big port and should be well lit”.
Pete…………
Well, in order to get out of El Rompido, we needed to leave at the top of a rising tide. This meant either go in the dark down a narrow unlit channel before dawn or leave at 18:00. We chose the latter, which meant that we would arrive at Chipiona in the dark at low tide. This is not advisable since the C-Map charts show only about half a metre depth between the entrance buoys and the entrance itself. Fliss read the cruising guide that stated that there was an anchorage 5 miles NW of Chipiona and we agreed to go there. However, when I re-checked with the C-Map charts and looked in the Almanac, there was no mention of any such anchorage.
Let’s do some comparisons………………
Cruising Guide: “There are good and attractive anchorages just inside the estuary of the (Rio) Guadalquivir about 5 miles away from Chipiona”
Reeds Almanac: “There are no recognised stopping places and any anchorage is vulnerable to passing traffic”
Cruising Guide: “To sail up the Rio Guadalquivir, with the National Park ……..must surely be the absolute highlight of any cruise in this region of Atlantic Andalusia.”
Reeds Almanac: (Which normally shuns ANY critique of places): “The river is not difficult to navigate but can be hot and uninspiring, through the flat and almost featureless terrain of the Donana National Park”
I know who’s review I would place my money on. So, no anchorage and no entry to Chipiona.
Monday 14th August 06
Fliss…………
So we went to Cadiz! We dodged fishing boats, one appeared to be aiming for so “Jobbo” shone the 2000 candle power torch on the main sail & the fishing boat got the message and turned, another drove straight in front of us dropping nets, all good fun & kept us awake.
At 6:30am we arrived at Cadiz, both feeling jaded! The navigation lights all blended into the background & add that with tired burning eyes it certainly was a wake up call.
Sails down, fenders out we find our way into the marina, Halleluiah! Christmas has come early, there’s two men waiting to take our lines!!! This to me is the height of luxury!
Even after stomping on the desks downing sails, engine on, mooring up & talking to other people Robyn didn’t wake up till 9am, amazing really!
We retired back to bed at 09:30am and woke up at 1pm feeling really shattered but we found the showers and ventured into Cadiz.
Looks absolutely lovely similar to Lisbon and today we will explore fully.
Pete had to be guided back to the boat as he was so tired that he had lost his sense of direction this is unusual for him.
Pete……….
Having decided that hoving-to was boring, we had a lovely sail down to Cadiz in bright moonlight slooshing-along easily at 6-7 knots. The entrance to the bay is nice and simple and, as long as we remembered that the buoys have a habit of jumping-up to meet you suddenly in the darkness, we entered without issue.
The sky lightened just as we finished getting the sails stowed, preparing lines and fenders and gave us enough light to see the entrance to the marina – perfect timing at 07:30 (local time).
Back to the issue of the Cruising Guide which states “However, the marina is quite a long way from the town and there is no bus service, so explorers will have to be willing to walk, or call a taxi, which may be one reason why this interesting city is missed by many yachts cruising the area”.
So we decided that we would just meander around the port and look at the views over the sea-wall since we were too tired to go too far. A short wander down the sea-wall and we found ourselves on the edge of the Old-Quarter of the city. Less than 15 minutes from the marina!
Bobby…
The sail was fantastic… the best sail I think I have ever done. I wasn’t ill. I helped Fliss through ‘Pot City’ and yes it was great. We set off and the sea was a bit rocky but as soon as we got the sails out it calmed down a bit. We had a good 6-8 knots all the way and were really speeding along.
I went to bed and dad had to turn the VHF down as some idiot kept talking about “monkeys want a banana” and “I.M.O” which was amusing at first but got annoying after a while. Dad said he had heard the same guy before I arrived about 150 miles up the coast, yet the VHF only picks up around 30 miles. Nadezhda has a stalker!
I have decided not to listen to the cruising guide any more. After saying El Rompido was “an attractive village…with dunes and fantastic beaches” (it was a bit of a dump and the beaches were muddy and really not that great,) and that there was a long walk into Cadiz … did this guy actually go to any of these places? If he did, did he actually leave the marina???
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