Monday 21st August 06
Pete…………..
We eventually stayed in Cadiz for 3 Nights. The first day was a bit of a write-off as we were very tired from the overnight crossing. The next day, we explored with vigour. Cadiz is a dollop of land that sits at the end of an isthmus and is therefore almost an island and therefore it is difficult to get completely lost.
We walked around the coastal defensive walls that are now garnered with pleasant patterned paving and botanical gardens. Eventually we came across the forts that guarded the entrance to the bay although these obviously did not stop Nelson coming in and giving them a bit of a spic-slap.
The long walk out along the sea wall to the outermost fort was not fruitful as it was ascension day and almost everything was closed, including the fort.
We spent the rest of the day wandering amongst the tiny back-streets that led us from one side of the ‘island’ to the next soaking up the wonderful, relaxed ambience of the place. Eventually, we decided that it was time to get provisions and return to the boat. An hour later, we were still searching for any small shop to get some bread etc……yes, it was a public holiday!
We eventually spent more days than expected in Cadiz since the forecast for the day we were leaving was bad and we awoke to driving rain and howling winds. We decided to stay put and spent the day relaxing. I can think of worse places to be stuck!
From Cadiz, we were going to go to Santa-Pectri. This is a shoal entrance that can only be attempted in good weather. We had been having a bit of a blow from the wrong direction for a few days and, as we exited Cadiz, Bobby was promptly seasick. Although Santa-Pectri was close-by, we thought that the swell in the entrance would cause us difficulties and also, we knew that stronger winds were forecast in a day or so. We therefore decided that we would run straight to Gibraltar with an overnight stop in Tarifa. We motored most of the way but picked-up some wind as we approached the Gibraltar straights. The sail/motor was good, as was the visibility and we spotted Africa (Cabo Espartel) when we were 30 miles away!! The wind died eventually but we still managed to ghost into Tarifa under sail with a good tide under the keel and anchored just between the harbour wall and the headland.
Africa
The following morning, we set-off for Gibraltar just before dawn to catch the last of the East-going tide. The visibility was stunning again and we felt as we were squeezing ourselves between Europe and Africa as the blood-red sun rose quickly above the horizon. We motored again with no wind and entered the busy bay of Gibraltar packed with merchant ships at anchor. People say that there are many dolphins in the bay and we were sorry that Robyn had not seen any. Suddenly, I spotted a pod of them and chased after them under motor. Soon we had them all around us and we circled and chased them up and down the bay for a while and they responded by giving us a good show at the bows of the boat.
We eventually proceeded to Gibraltar port where we called-up on channel 12/20 as advised in the Almanac……..No response. So we went to the Yacht reporting station as directed by the Almanac to find nothing there apart from a notice saying “No Mooring”. So we called-up the marina who told us they were fully booked and eventually settled for the designated anchoring spot. We went ashore (on British soil) to be told by a Spanish guy that we had to go to the Spanish side and then use our passports to get to Gib. So we went in the dinghy round a bit further after a Brit, who was doing a bit of fishing, said that we would not get such a poor welcome there. Luckily, we met another dinghy coming back from that direction who told us that they had received the same welcome. So, it was either anchor in Spain or try the central Marina who we had failed to raise on the VHF. We motored towards the main marina and eventually got a signal and the promise of a berth. Did I ever say that we should never tow the dinghy with the engine on?? The wind had whipped-up and the sea was bouncy as we motored the couple of Kilometres into the main harbour and the dinghy was not behaving itself. Luckily, we slowed to a speed that managed to keep it from getting airborne and arrived at the Marina without mishap. Our first attempt at a Mediterranean style mooring went as smooth as silk thanks to the Marina staff and their helpful advice. And here we are!
Gibraltar is a little piece of England planted in the South of Spain. You can see the strategic importance as you stand at the Southernmost tip (Europa Point) and gaze at Africa almost a spit away. There are remnants of gun emplacements that point towards the Straights and had carte-blanche as to who comes and goes. Apparently 70,000 ships pass through each year.
We will stay here a week until Bobby flies home. Although the Rock is only a few kilometres from end-to-end, we will still have enough to occupy our time. Already, we have walked holes in the bottom of our shoes and everywhere seems to be either uphill or downhill. We have been here 2 and a half days and still have all the major sights to see.
Our main jobs here are to get the mainsail fixed (due to meet them tomorrow) and to re-provision. Today, we got a rucksack full of M&S tinned curries/meats and there is a Safeway/Morrisons not too far away and we will do a few runs with the rucksacks there in the next couple of days. The Gin and whisky is two-pounds and fifty pence per litre (which makes it cheaper than the mixers) and we are steadily filling the spare 20 litre water carriers whilst the going is good!!
PS: The wind did pick-up as forecast. We are glad that we legged-it to Gib and we are also pleased we managed to get a place in the Marina. The Levante winds have blown force 9 through the Straights leaving a tell-tale cloud sitting right over the Marina as the warm wet air is forced over the peak. If we had remained at anchor, exposed to the low-lying land, we would not have been able to go ashore in the dinghy.
Bobby:
Cadiz, so much I could say about it but there’s not much that dad hasn’t said already. A really quaint town with lots of…SHOPS!!! Very nice atmosphere and all in all I’m really happy we stopped there despite feeling a bit dubious about it when awaking after the night sail to see the oil docks, big and ugly!
We then sailed to Tarifa. The original plan was to stop at Barbate but it would add quite a few miles to the journey so decided against it. It looked nice and I wanted to explore but it was late and we were leaving at half 6 the next morning.
We were almost at Gib. I could see the rock and was feeling a bit low. I was so desperate to see a dolphin before I left and yet it seemed so unlikely so close to shore.
Then dad spotted some funny looking waves (dolphins backs in the distance.) We motored towards them and they all swam over, racing the boat. It was so beautiful. I took lots of pictures, which probably will just show a load of water but… what can you do??? It was the bestest sight ever in the whole wide world!!!
So far in Gibraltar we have been to the botanical gardens and to a wildlife place. There were birds that were desperate to escape, biting and digging away from the cages, monkeys, some of which were VERY vicious and hated me and Fliss… must be a female thing and some terrapins with names on their backs. They were A, B, C, Doris, E, F, G etc… Doris must have been special.
You have no idea what a luxury it is to have hot marina showers, chip shops and the freedom to just hop off the boat! The alcohol is cheap so dad and Fliss are stocking up…Lets just say that Dad and Fliss must have got a few funny looks walking around town with 18 litres of whisky and gin… Am off home on Saturday,,, looking forward to seeing my mum and Glen and my mates and my family.
Fliss…
Hello I’m going to keep this brief as I’m fatigued due to walking, walking and more walking at the end of Gib I will have legs like a all-in wrestler on steroids.
Cadiz, very nice.
Tarifa looked lovely but too late to explore
Gibraltar, I love it! A little piece of England with all the quaintness still intact with shops closing on Sunday, how bizarre!
The thought of having to do a “Mediterranean” mooring caused me a few ulcers and I admit to biting all my fingernails & toenails (wishful thinking on the toenails part) I was very stressed coming in as the wind was blowing! But it turned out to be easy but I wouldn’t have been so smug if the very nice man hadn’t taken our bow lines, god I loved him.
Mediterranean mooring provides excellent entertainment watching boats cocking up apart from the “Spanish” motor boat who came to close to the rear end of Nadezhda. We were just returning to the boat and saw a guy jumping on and running to the back to fend-off.. Mr Spaniard touched our delicate Aries gear, we were ok but it left a nasty scratch on his hull – GO ON NAZZY!.
Getting on & off Nadezhda provides fantastic entertainment to other boat users as knickers are flashed at an alarming rate, Robyn & I make sure we wear our best!!! Wouldn’t want to let the side down. We regularly get applause!
A very sad state of affairs today though, Pete spotted a pub that sold Old Speckled Hen but when we went passed earlier on in the day was to early so at 6:45pm on our way to M&S we agreed that he could have a pint of Old Speckled Hen before M&S and a pint of IPA on the way back, you guessed it the pub was closed, unreal! Pete had the look of a man who had won & million and lost a million in the same day, oh well there’s still tomorrow…
I’m sure we’ve missed a lot of what has happened in this update but we will try harder!
Anyway time to go as I’m really tired but Morocco is the next stop and I’m really looking forward to it!
Saturday 26th August 06
Pete……….
We spent a very pleasant time in Gibraltar. The girls went shopping whilst I organised the mainsail repair, extended insurance and engine service. I wasn’t aware exactly when the service was due since the handbook is a bit vague. It could have been 100 hours, 200 hours or 500 hours! As it turned-out, it was 200 hours after the last service and we were within 2 hours of the appointed time – not bad eh?
The sail was returned at 20:30 on the night before we were due to leave. Talk about cutting it fine. The guy on the boat next to us tutted and said that they were always well overdue with any work – which didn’t go down very well with my nerves.
We walked over most of Gib. On the first day, we walked down to Europa point to visit the lighthouse where Africa looked only a few miles away and tried to do a full circuit of the island but half-way up the Eastern side, we found all the roads blocked/barred and so had to return the same way we came.
Europa Point
The Governor's Gaff
Another day, we took a walk up to the Moorish fort at the North end of the island only to find it closed. Since we had walked a fair way up the Rock we decided to carry on to the top only to find that the final bit of road was MOD property and we could not pass. We took another road that circuited the top of the Rock to where the cable car rides up. We descended to the half-way point of the cable-car where some of the local monkeys hang-out. They are quite tame and don’t seem to mind people constantly poking cameras in their faces. We tried to make sense of the tourist map, and wandered in circles (or, more to the point, up and down) before eventually finding the path that led us back down to the main town.
On the last day, we took the plunge and shelled out the 48 quid for a tour (8 pounds each for the tour and 8 pounds each for the entrance tickets to the caves/siege-tunnels). The natural caves were not bad but had lost their lustre due to too many visitors. The main cave had been converted into an amphitheatre where concerts and plays were held. It must be quite dramatic to attend one.
The Caves
Later, we stopped at the highest point where there was another group of monkeys. The taxi-driver enticed one of the monkeys onto our shoulders with nuts for a photo opportunity. Robyn thought it was great but I thought that it smelt of old faeces! The sign nearby said “Do not feed or touch the monkeys”.
Robyn Monkeying Around
The last stop was at the old siege tunnels. These were the first tunnels dug through the rock to allow cannon-fire onto the Spanish during a siege that lasted for years. Now, there are 33 miles of tunnels all joined together containing field hospital, fuel bunkers etc. This is longer than the amount of road on the surface.
Yesterday, we dropped Robyn at the airport and said our farewells then moved Nadezhda to the anchorage just over the Spanish border and prepared her for the passage to Madeira (actually Porto Santo approximately 20 miles North-West of the main island.
Robyn Hitching a Ride on the Runway
Fliss…
I really enjoyed Gib as it really was a little piece of home complete with the policeman wearing silly pointy hats.
The major highlight for me was Safeways/Morrisons, fantastic! we shopped till we dropped. Onboard at the moment we have Stilton the size of Gib and three large lumps of cheddar, 28 cans of curry (various flavours) 18 of which came from Marks & Spencers, 6 jars of mango chutney, 18 cans of tuna and loads of other goodies! Oh I nearly forgot 52 litres of spirits which have been stowed VERY carefully under the Captains berth. When I get back I will never take English supermarkets for granted, the choice was superb!
Provisioning.
(Pete….The spirits are the same price as the lemonade to go with them!!!)
I’m so glad that Robyn saw dolphins and had the monkey sit on her shoulder at it really made her holiday! I think the monkey must have sensed one of his own and branded Pete! As Robyn & I didn’t think it smelt.
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