We did not get any rest after we arrived since we had a small stream of dinghies coming by to introduce themselves and chat. By the time we thought it was ideal for a quick nap, we realised that we needed to make something for the pot-luck barbeque. Since we had nothing to barbeque and we had run-down all our fresh stocks in Polynesia, we had a little difficulty. Eventually, we made up rice with peas and peppers and a dish of pasta with pesto. Neither were touched since the Americans brought along much tastier fare of pulses and Poisson-Cru (raw fish in lime juice). What a waste of our meagre supplies! Anyway, a couple of boats had been fishing and we had barbequed Mahi-Mahi and Wahu that was exceptionally delicious - even Fliss had to admit that it was more like steak than fish.
BBQ on the beach
Fliss…
The fish was cooked by Jim and Martha on a motor boat called “Special Blend” you couldn’t help but like Jim as he had a wonderful deep south American accent, infectious laughter and a larger than life personality, a real character.
Pete….
The island is looked after by John, Veronica and their four children. Veronica comes from Danger Island (NW of Suvarov) and John is from Raratonga - the kids range from about 12 down to about 4 years old. We unloaded our unused Monopoly game on the unsuspecting family. Here they are without need for money and commerce and we are now forcing the merciless cut and thrust of unfettered capitalism on them!
26th August 2007
Today we went over to Sabbatical III with whom we had VHF contact during most of our passage across. They quickly whipped-up fresh fruit smoothies blended with crushed ice. They have a Super-Maramu that looks like a throw-back to Seventies design from the outside but is lush and luxurious inside. The freezer was the size of our cockpit and held all sorts of goodies - they even had unopened bottles of good wine underneath the saloon table - how the other half live eh?
Having been delayed there, we made our way over to the beach where John, Veronica and the kids were waiting for a tutorial on the basics of Monopoly. The game went well and we thought that everyone understood the concepts until it came time to start trading properties with other players. I swapped Kings Cross station with Veronica for Old Kent Road plus a couple of hundred pounds cash and then suggested that everyone start trying to get a full set of one colour by doing similar deals. Jeremiah, the eldest, also had a card that Veronica wanted. We told him to name his price and he said "Ten Pounds". I pointed out that he had already spent over £200 for the card and that, since his mum really needed the card, he could turn a seriously obscene profit. We asked him again what he wanted for the card and he still insisted on £10 - I think he was simply trying to be nice to his Mum. In the end, Fliss told his mum to pay £500 although I think that she would have been willing to pay nearly double that! I am not sure that the game will catch-on in the traditional sense and yet John and Veronica now have to put up with constant demands to play another game. We have obviously failed to create mini-entrepreneurs but have successfully managed to introduce petty demands and incessant squabbles into an otherwise loving and close-knit family.
Fliss…
I couldn’t help but admire the integrity of Jeremiah as there was no way he was going to stitch his mum up, the youngest, Mani, was a different kettle of fish without a doubt a budding businessman, “show me the money” was his favourite saying whilst rubbing his hands together in glee, a cracking little cheeky chappy with outgoing personality.
Pete….
In the evening, we visited Ian and Cathy on home-built "Ariel" a steel Wylo. They have returned from NZ to do some more cruising of this area of the Pacific before they go back there again at the end of the season. I said that there was a article about a couple on a Wylo "Wylo II" transiting the Panama canal a couple of years ago in Yachting Monthly. They said that they were there and that the photograph in the article was of their boat.
27th August 2007
John and family invited the yachties to visit Bird Island and the Seven islands on the Eastern flank of the Atoll. Those with Rigid dinghies and powerful outboards (Americans) took their own transport and those without (Us) went with John & Co in their aluminium boat and their outboard that fired on only one of the two cylinders. A couple of Americans from catamaran "Emmanuel" also came along with us.
Baby Frigate Bird
Bird Island
We stopped first at Bird Island. There are a number of Motus fringing the reef but only one of them seems to be populated with birds. In fact it is overpopulated, with terns, frigate birds and tropic birds all nesting beak-by-jowl on, in and under the scrubby vegetation. As we walked by, the terns all took flight and hovered above us - some of them were only a few yards away but they did not appear to be malicious in any way and we were not dive-bombed or guano-splattered. The kids loved it and were hunting rock pools for crabs. Jeremiah had eyes of a hawk and pointed-out eggs, crabs fish in rock pools and spotted an eel under a rock which he lifted to send the alarmed animal skittering across the rocks into another, larger rock pool.
Fliss…..
As we dropped anchor John said “If any sharks come towards you don’t run or panic” I have never seen so many people power walking!.
Fliss…..
As we dropped anchor John said “If any sharks come towards you don’t run or panic” I have never seen so many people power walking!.
Pete…..
We moved-on to the "Seven Islands" and stopped… at the Eighth! Our stop at Eight Island included a walk around the island to pick up Jetsam and other rubbish. After that, Jeremiah shimmied up a coconut tree to knock down fresh green ones so we all had a fresh drink. Veronica suggested that the bods from Emmanuel may be tired and that they should go back with Aaron and Chris from another catamaran "Bare Feet" - they are a lovely pair and easy to chat with.
After that, it was just Fliss & I and the caretakers. We took our time on the return journey trolling a couple of hand-held lines over the back of the boat. Jeremiah caught a whopper of a Grouper that his dad had to help in getting aboard. After that, I was handed the line and caught two more, not quite as big as the first. The technique is to run over patches of coral heads where a catch is almost guaranteed. I got the award for the best bludgeoning with a blunt stick that was necessary before trying to extract the hook from the sharp-toothed mouths.
We moved-on to the "Seven Islands" and stopped… at the Eighth! Our stop at Eight Island included a walk around the island to pick up Jetsam and other rubbish. After that, Jeremiah shimmied up a coconut tree to knock down fresh green ones so we all had a fresh drink. Veronica suggested that the bods from Emmanuel may be tired and that they should go back with Aaron and Chris from another catamaran "Bare Feet" - they are a lovely pair and easy to chat with.
After that, it was just Fliss & I and the caretakers. We took our time on the return journey trolling a couple of hand-held lines over the back of the boat. Jeremiah caught a whopper of a Grouper that his dad had to help in getting aboard. After that, I was handed the line and caught two more, not quite as big as the first. The technique is to run over patches of coral heads where a catch is almost guaranteed. I got the award for the best bludgeoning with a blunt stick that was necessary before trying to extract the hook from the sharp-toothed mouths.
Pete and the Grouper
Fliss….
It was wonderful just hanging out with the family (sorry for the Americanism). Just seconds before Pete caught his first grouper Jeremiah shouted “You’ve caught a fish” he had watched it swim up from underneath the coral and take the lure, amazing really.
It was wonderful just hanging out with the family (sorry for the Americanism). Just seconds before Pete caught his first grouper Jeremiah shouted “You’ve caught a fish” he had watched it swim up from underneath the coral and take the lure, amazing really.
John & Veronica
Pete….
We went back to John and Veronica's to do clearance and I watched as John filleted the fish into great big boneless steaks. He offered us one and asked us to take another for "Emmanuel" and one for "Ariel".
The fish was delicious although a little over-spiced with Caribbean seasoning. We shall try something a little less intense with the rest of the fish.
28th August 2007
Not a lot to report today apart from we took a leisurely walk around the island.
We went back to John and Veronica's to do clearance and I watched as John filleted the fish into great big boneless steaks. He offered us one and asked us to take another for "Emmanuel" and one for "Ariel".
The fish was delicious although a little over-spiced with Caribbean seasoning. We shall try something a little less intense with the rest of the fish.
28th August 2007
Not a lot to report today apart from we took a leisurely walk around the island.
John & Veronica's children playing
Another day in the office for Pete!
29th August 2007
Fliss….
Pete I'm afraid to say is the biggest girl's blouse when it comes to snorkelling in the South Pacific (granted that the pilot book say's beware of aggressive sharks) in Surovov all the yachties were snorkelling on the reef but Pete wasn't keen so I asked another Yacht (Jim & Katy on Asylum) if I could go with them... Pete was almost shamed into going with us anyway, he sat in the dinghy with his mask and fins on and said in a pitiful voice " I Don't like sharks", being understanding, caring & sensitive I said " Get in the water you poof and let me know what's down there". after an hour (most of the time he spent standing on the reef) he declared that he had seen all of the reef and wanted to go back to Naz... Before I knew it Pete grabbed my arm and towed me back to the back.... I asked why he always tows me back and he said I was tired??? news to me! I think he wants us both out ASAP as I can splash a bit with my fins which is bad news as it attracts sharks as they think it's a fish in distress.
The coral was very nice but no great abundance of marine life.
Fliss….
Pete I'm afraid to say is the biggest girl's blouse when it comes to snorkelling in the South Pacific (granted that the pilot book say's beware of aggressive sharks) in Surovov all the yachties were snorkelling on the reef but Pete wasn't keen so I asked another Yacht (Jim & Katy on Asylum) if I could go with them... Pete was almost shamed into going with us anyway, he sat in the dinghy with his mask and fins on and said in a pitiful voice " I Don't like sharks", being understanding, caring & sensitive I said " Get in the water you poof and let me know what's down there". after an hour (most of the time he spent standing on the reef) he declared that he had seen all of the reef and wanted to go back to Naz... Before I knew it Pete grabbed my arm and towed me back to the back.... I asked why he always tows me back and he said I was tired??? news to me! I think he wants us both out ASAP as I can splash a bit with my fins which is bad news as it attracts sharks as they think it's a fish in distress.
The coral was very nice but no great abundance of marine life.
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