We checked out of Vavau and did our final provisioning and then headed of to Port Morrelle to say goodbye to Don & Barbi.
In the afternoon they popped over to say goodbye and Barbi presented us with some homemade chilli sauce, she warned us that it was strong stuff and we should only use small amounts, well see!
Don asked us if we really should go as the weather forecast was for 25 knots gusting up to 30 knots and the wind variable and rain, as we know now that with high winds brings nasty steep seas. Pete and I both felt that we should risk it and start making our way to Nukalofia ready for the jump off to New Zealand plus the weather had been so poor in Vavau we really wanted to see & do something different. Henry Lloyds at the ready we dropped the mooring buoy and headed off out to the unknown.
As we motored part Don & Barbi they gave us a traditional Polynesian send off and both blew their conch shells, great send off great couple!.
On our way out the sky behind us was grey and raining all over Vavau, Pete and I looked at each other and said “It’s gonna be a long night”.
As it turned out the forecasters couldn’t have got it more wrong, we had 3 knots gusting to 10 knots of wind, smooth to slight seas and the most wonderful starlit night. We had 2 reefs in the main (standard stuff on night passages) jib and headsail, with the engine on tick over we gently glided our way to Ha’afeva – Hapai. We were both glad that went for it!
6th October 2007
We arrived here in Ha'afeva at 08:45 this morning. This is a tiny island with an encircling reef and clean sandy beaches. Apparently, there is a village on the other side of the island and we will walk across there later to investigate. Also, the snorkelling is supposed to be good around the North side of the reef and we will take the dinghy there and have a look as well.
We walked to the village and it is quite large and built mainly of wood. It is completely surrounded by a fence of sticks that is used to keep the pigs, goats and chickens nearby. We saw very few people there and the people kept themselves to themselves. I think the problem is that most do not speak any English and so we acknowledged them and carried on. Eventually, a young lady called our attention and asked if we wanted some bananas. This is a usual trick for starting bartering and we said that we would rather like some papaya, breadfruit and citrus fruits. The lady had a bad tooth and wanted painkillers and so we agreed on a swap of some medicines. It is clear that they can receive dental treatment since the lady had two gold capped teeth that I think are status symbols rather than anything else but we don't know how often the treatment is available of where they have to go to get treatment.
She then invited us to lunch at her house tomorrow at 1pm, the locals are so friendly and could really show the western world how hospitality is really done, we appreciate that we will have to go laden with gifts but it’ll be another wonderful experience.
We did a bit of snorkelling but it is not as interesting as we had imagined. We have seen better and only had about 20 minutes in the water as we were both tired after the nights sail.
7th October 2007
We walked across to the other side of the island today to have Sunday lunch with Linda-the-local. We have been told that the offer of lunch or dinner is often extended to visiting yachts and some form of reciprocal gift is not out of place. Fliss dug out some old make-up and I fished-out a length of rope that has been taking up locker-space plus an adjustable spanner that would never be used.
Gifts proffered (the rope seemed to be a winner), we sat down to lunch - on our own. The table was laid for two people and we ate there like kings whilst the rest of the family and the village children watched us. A very strange affair but, apparently, other yachties have had the same experience on other islands. The food was good; fish in batter, corned beef wrapped in taro leaves, sausages, sweet potato and taro root.
After lunch, and with doggie-bag in hand, the local boys escorted us around the island. They wanted us to show them where the big spider was that we had taken a photo of earlier in the day. We showed them and they proceeded to catch it and handle the monster (almost as big as their hands) to Felicity's dismay. They were warned that if it came within 6 yards, then Fliss would break out in a deadly allergic reaction. They kept the spider well away from her.
Fliss…..
I must clarify the spider bit, it was HUGE with a massive white egg sack and red and black legs.... after the kids left Nadezhda I was worried that the little scoundrels had put one in the bag and I had visions of waking up to the cockpit being one big spiders nest.... they didn't thank god!We have had a wonderful time here and the locals are great, the children are immensely tactile and I have this wonderful memory of Pete walking down the jungle track with one little boy holding his had, Pete's face told a million stories as he wasn't sure what to do.... it was so funny this long legged foreigner holding this little boys hand who was knee high to a grass hopper...
Here is very reminiscent of the Tuomoutous, very very peaceful and lush jungle interior.... fantastic.
We both agree that Tonga has probably been our favourite of the South Pacific.
8th October 2007
We moved from Ha'afeva at 10:00 and had a superb sail in 20-30 knots of wind just 25 miles to Nomuku Iki. Nomuku Iki is a small island just off the island of Nomuku. I think that "Iki" means "Small" or "Child of". We felt our way into the anchorage under leaden skies and unable to see the reefs except where waves were breaking over the shallower areas and were a bit worried about the exposed position we settled in, especially since the beach to the side of us has a wrecked fishing boat lying there on its side. The winds continued and reached at least 35 knots towards the evening and so it was not the most restful night although the batteries are now well and truly charged.9th October 2007
Today the wind abated a bit and we launched the dinghy and took a walk along the shore. Apparently, the island houses a prison but we did not find it since the interior seemed to be an impenetrable mass of shrubs and trees. We did not go too far around the island as banks of clouds rolled in and we scuttled back to Naz before things turned dirty. The rest of yesterday was spent washing ourselves and clothes in the cockpit and filling the water tanks and other water containers we have. We are now clean, are full of water and topped up with electricity. However, the weather did not recognise this fact and kept dumping inches of water on the decks as the winds increased and came at us from all directions causing Naz to swing and set off the anchor alarm every so often. Again, not a pleasant or relaxing night.
10th October 2007
The wind has settled to a more Nor-Easterly slant and so we now have the swell coming around the North of Nomuka to contend with as well as being on a truly lee shore with the wrecked fishing boat directly behind us. If we dragged our anchor, we will follow the clear path through the coral that was cut by the stricken fishing vessel.
We upped anchor at about 13:00 after we got completely miffed with the pitching of the boat in the waves. We moved across into the lee of Nomuka main island and dithered around trying to find a patch of sand amid the jumble of coral and steep-sided bommies. Eventually, we set the hook and all was calm and peaceful at last.
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